Monday 14 June 2010

TT Week...

Was spent on the Isle of Man building a patio for the in-laws. However I managed to get out a few times.

Sunday, went out tradding and did half a dozen short routes all around the E4 mark. T'was nice to have a good day on trad after so long without doing it (notwithstanding the odd rare solo).

Tuesday went to a sport crag and tried a very wet 7C. The approach for this crag is epic and leaves you on a small ledge of to the left side of the crag 20 foot above the sea. The route heads out steeply right above the sea round the lip of a cave before heading up a steep headwall to finish up a groove, about 35-40 metres all told. A bit long for me, but it was very good (albeit in awful condition). There is also potential for several more routes here up to very hard grades. Keen to return.

Wednesday went to a training traverse which has been discovered. The traverse is about 7b+, but there is potential for a couple of low eliminate variations in the 8-something ballpark which I worked on.

Friday back to Sundays trad venue, and I was rubbish. Feeling a bit tired I think. Cleaned up a new line but the rock quality wasn't up to getting on the sharp end.

Also watched a bit of the races, it's hard to put into words just how fast the bikes are in the flesh (much faster than it appears on the TV). Brave, mad or stupid? Hard to say...

A Bit of Nookie

The week before last I went to Newbiggin with G and G, had a pleasant enough time but...

Well it isn't Font is it?

Anyway later in the week, after tales of Cornice dryness, a day pass was utilised to visit Cheedale with the Guru. Powerplant was the first port of call. Guru worked it our pretty easily, I struggled with the crux move. The Guru then had a successful redpoint and I worked it a bit more. It's getting there but is too long for my current state of fitness.

I then ventured round the corner to the Nook. Now this is more like it, short hard bouldery routes. Sadly also filthy, I had a play/clean on Lockless and unlocked the moves. After a rest I had a very poor redpoint attempt but to be fair the route was still filthy and it was getting pretty dark at this point. I think to do Powerplant I need to work it again and get fitter and to do Lockless I need to clean it and it needs to be light.