Brief update

Went to Trollers, it was wet.
Went to Almscliff, did Real Keel, woop woop!
Went to Trollers, it was not quite so wet.
Went to Almscliff, worked Dialectics.
C'est tout.
Now I am ill and about to go to the Isle of Man, it would seem the climbing year will be going out with a whimper rather than a bang.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

Common features to this blog...

have mostly been the rain. How can it rain so consistently for so long?
Anyway, I thought I'd do a post just to prove I'm not dead. Recent activity on the climbing front has almost exclusively revolved around the board. It is growing holds at a reasonable rate and the number of problems is on the increase, however I do worry slightly that the new holds I'm making are generally a bit bigger than the holds that I was using when it was a 25. This isn't of itself a big problem as lots of the 25 holds are currently totally unusable by me at 40. But I am aware that I may never find them usable if I just stick to pulling on the new slightly bigger holds, to get to the point where I can use the smaller holds I need to be pushing right at my limit. Time will tell...
Also G-bob visited the board for a session which was excellent, it forces me to try new problems (invariably involving huge spans utilising G-lank) which I'd never think of for myself as I'd just discount them as too far. Training (which is a word that suggests a level of structure and discipline that is entirely lacking from my regime) alone is difficult, motivation is difficult and you almost always end up stuck in a rut of working only one facet of climbing. Maybe I should get a climbing lodger...

Aside from the board I have been out a couple of times, I'm still trying sport and I have found another new project line. I've done all the moves bar one (wet hold prevented an attempt) but I'm thinking the link will be hard work, we'll see.
Also went to West View with G-bob and Ginnster. It's been done up and is a big improvement on what was there before. I don't think the Depot and the Works need to panic but it is a more viable training option now. However the campus board is at the wrong angle and it's textured surface will yield painful tips pretty rapidly IMHO. La-de-da, I had a pretty good session there, managing most stuff I tried, but burning out pretty quickly. I think this may be a bit of post viral lethargy from an ongoing cold/cough/flu/consumption thing I've had. Or maybe I'm just the same old tragically unfit punter I always was.
Also went to the Works at the weekend, I really like it there and had a good time. I had lard in tow and he had the time of his life running round shouting. The trouble is the place is so big that I just throw myself in and get worn out. I'd like it to be nearer, and me to have membership, then I could go regularly and work through the problems, get on the comp wall and flail on the Beast-board. As it is I invariably end up there for an hour or two, generally with lard in tow and just rush at a few things. It's still good fun but I really don't think I get as much out of it as I could, but then that's obvious.
This week looks wet, hopefully next week will be better.

Is it raining, I hadn't noticed...

Bastard weather, bloody bastard weather, bloody bastard twating weather. Arse cakes bum fart pooh.

It is wet, it has been wet, it will always be wet. G helpfully counts the wet and dry days on his blog. Well no need any more just use this:
Wet days - infinite
Dry days - ha-ha-bloody-ha
This is annoying, I have things to do, projects to climb. The list of sport routes was growing at an uncontrollable rate before wet weather put pay to ever ticking anything. Now it's gone into overdrive, I went out with the guru yesterday and everything was wet. I came back with at least 8 new lines I'm desperate to try. That's a whole seasons worth of climbing, and then some. Add in the existing backlog of routes to do and it becomes clear the treadmill is turning significantly faster than I can run.
Frustratingly I have just reached a point where I am confident that the couple of things I am keen to get ticked are now possible for me, of course when they next dry I'll be fat and have no stamina at all (which is an important if small step below practically non-existant stamina, my current level).
Next week looked like it might be promising when I last looked but things are now so very wet I think I may just have to get on the boulders and rekindle my affair with filthy sport next year. Time (and precipitation) will tell.
Anyway all this moisture has meant a session or two on the board. I haven't managed to persuade anyone to come over and play so far and I rapidly become a bit bored of devising problems (I always seem to end up using the same holds just in a slightly different order). Of course this means I end up trying some of the silly party tricks that we climbers are so very fond of.
Last night I managed 3 one-armers on the right and 2 on the left, which is nice.
I also managed to lock a mono (feet on, other hand off, 40 degree board) which I was pleased with. In fact I made some monos and two finger pockets last week and I really enjoy (failing to) pull on them. It's a very different hand position to an edge and feels totally weird (and injury causing) to start with. But now I'm feeling the love (until the injuries start...).

Oh well, I've got to go and stir my lovely homemade soup (sweet potato, carrot and roasted peppers since you asked) a sure sign that winter is coming.

A merry bonfire night to you all.

As one season ends anoother begins.

I have been to Kilnsey a couple of times, but I seem to be getting dragged into progressively harder and harder projects without sticking at anything long enough to tick it. You definitely need a good dose of patience to get things done in the sport climbing game. Still fun though, and plenty of skittles set up for a (hopefully) rapid knock down next year. And there's still a bit more life to be eeked out of the lime yet...

But I also went to Almscliff yesterday and the grit is pretty much in now. G-unit was trying Keel, and making good progress. So I lauched into battle with Real Keel. I very briefly tried this last year and it felt very hard so I was quite surprised to find that getting to the pocket move felt really steady this time round. I had a few flings for the pocket but didn't hit it, however I was getting pretty close so I think this will get done. Dare I say hard for the short? I think I dare.

Also tried Pebble Wall Right Hand, this is definitely harder for the short. G-bob should have done this, in fact fuck it he did do it he just chose to let go. I think he was perhaps a bit distracted by the chap who wandered over to tell us we were try a hard severe without ropes, and it was awesome. It was a chap who was apparently new to climbing and was looking for some top-rope problems, just a shame JB wasn't there to help him out...

This week? A bit of work, a bit of lime and a bit of grit. I am in my transition phase, having gorged my unwieldy caterpillar form on the lime I will now enter the chrysalis and emerge as a beautiful gritstone butterfly. Or some such crap.

Toodle pip.

As I approach 40...

...degrees. The board has received some DIY this week. It now looms at an ominous 40 degrees, which is pretty steep considering lots of the holds were poor as a mere 25. I haven't yet climbed on it but am looking forward to getting spanked shortly.


The side panel needs extending but the gap shows how much steeper the board now is.


I still need to board out the top section.


I haven't climbed at all since last Friday until Thursday when I met the Guru at Kilnsey for another Massala session. I also had a secret plan, which I revealed as soon as we arrived at the crag so not that secret really. My current best onsight/flash performance was 6b, which is a bit lame and probably indicative of the fact that really I have done very little sport climbing, and most of it has been working harder routes. So I planned to try and get my flash grade up to something in the 7's, and there is a short bouldery little 7a+ called Smooth Torquer at the far right end of Kilnsey that seemed like an ideal candidate. And it was, first 7a+ flash, which is nice. Nice route as well, I'd recommend it to any boulderers tempted to try sport climbing it really is bouldering on a rope (are you listening G?).

Anyway that was a decent warm up so now it was time to get cold again whilst the Guru had a session on Massala. The I had a little play on the middle bit, which was feeling very steady despite my cold fingers, and then on to the first move. The basic idea was to approach it as a boulder problem, but with a harness on and rope tied on. Should I (or the Guru) hang the hold then the other person would quickly attach the pre-threaded Gri-gri and off you go. I was almost confident but it wasn't to be, the left hand sloper you dyno/slap off was a bit warm and it felt wierd having harness/rope on so my balance felt a bit out. Anyway neither me or the Guru managed to hang the hold and we got side-tracked on another bit of rock. But just before rushing off I decided to have one last throw, and promptly dropped it again. The Guru was the obliged to have a final pop, and landed the hold. Only to realise he didn;t have a chalk bag or a quickdraw for the first clip. We sort of sorted that out then off he went but the faffing had done him in. Oh well next time.

Went to the Cliff with G today, conditions were actually pretty ming. I almost broke my back greasing off Patta's Arete (which incidentally isn't as good a problem as is made out IMHO), G almost did Pebble Wall RH, I mean really very nearly almost. Next time, with slightly better conditions I'm sure he'll crush it. Feels a bit reachy for me though. Then we had a play on Fieldside which seemed really hard, I did all the moves but linking it wasn't going to happen today. I think it probably feels significantly more steady when the holds aren't damp under touch. Then we moved over to Caley, we had a brief attempt at Horn LH which also felt uber-damp, so I binned it to save skin for tomorrow (Kilnsey, get me a full on sport climber now) whilst G continued to cover himself in glory by cruching The Horn (having giving Horn LH up as a bad job). He then ruined the aura of climbing prowess that surrounded him by flailing pathetically on Mr Smooth. I had to head home then and now I'm contemplating a spot of DIY to fully complete the board steepening (apart from lashing on a load of new holds on the new top section). Gonna get strong or broken in the next few months methinks...

Grit, what grit?

I'm still in sport mode, which surprises me. I've really enjoyed sport climbing over the summer, which I wasn't expecting. Especially given the fact that I have had less success than I was hoping for. I'm still strangely motivated to clip the bolts and work the moves.

Anyway over the last few days I have done the following:
Went to Longridge where I helicoptered off the last move of Big Marine and landed on my head. Maybe I should have just kept hold of the finishing jug? Bruised my wrists a bit but no lasting damage, it would seem my head is a pretty good thing to land on, certainly a better shock absorber than my knees. Also tried a new line which I think will probably end up as a dirty hard one mover (7c+/8a).

Went to Trollers Gill again. Failed again on the Guru's new route, it has one move that is very hard for me. But did tweak the sequence slightly which whilst it doesn't make the move any easier I think it increases it's percentage (if that makes any sense, probably not). Also did Spent Youth, I tried for the flash but got my feet all a bit confused. Then bolt-to-bolt to the top and a quick check of a couple of moves as I was lowered down then redpointed it first attempt. A nice route which I was pleased to get ticked pretty quickly.

Went to Kilnsey with the Guru, we were planning on scoping Yew Cogar but weather issues meant we opted for Kilnsey instead. We both worked our way up Massala Martyr from one move in and I've got a workable sequence up to the fourth bolt, Guru has a sequence to the top. The route is essentially three boulder problems then an easy finish however a hold has broken on the third boulder problem (above the fourth bolt) so current thinking seems to be 8a+ to the fourth bolt and 8b to the belay. After working the route we tried bouldering out the first move. This is the hardest move on the route and I was very clode to hanging it (it's a dyno). I think maybe next time it will go, and I'm sure if I do the move I can get to the fourth bolt. Which would be 8a+. Now OK it would be a bit wanky, only doing half the route and then claiming a tick, but it is still a quality bit of climbing to the fouth bolt and it is a obvious stopping point at a good hold in a break. So I'm not just picking some arbritary point to let go and claim a grade (well OK I sort of am but what the hey, it's only climbing). Anyway very keen to get back on this. Then went to a top secret Yorkshire Limestone bouldering venue, I'd tell you more but it's kind of an exclusive venue. You know only hard problems, access is not clear etc etc so to preserve access for me and my mates it seems best to keep schtum. I'm sure you'll all understand...

Smile, you never know who's watching.

This week I have been mostly failing...

Sunday I went to Widdop with Lard to meet up with G-unit and Ginnster. I was hoping to crush Fight on Black, an ascent was looooong overdue. Unfortunately Lard was suffering an advanced case of Plague and decided he wanted to go home, so we left without even pulling on anything. Strangely Lard made a full recovery for sn afternoon at the park, hmmmm....

Monday work.

Tuesday work then G-bob attended crush school on the board. A pretty good session, only let down by G's shocking footwork. Have a word with yourself lankster.

Wednesday work then the Sexpest paid a visit to dabble on the board. Another good session, but my skin was getting sore by now and my finger joints were feeling creaky, old man!

Thursday went to Trollers Gill with Guru. We did a shocking route to warm up (the right arete of the big central crack), yeuck. Then Guru had a project to play on so we both dabbled with this, it is a steady start and finish but has a couple of stiff pulls in the middle. After a bit of working a sequence was devised and Guru dispatched it first redpoint, nice. I worked it again but was really struggling with one move which felt very reachy. I thought it was nails at the time and would be full on 8a but Guru felt 7c+ probably more accurate. On consideration I agree, allowing for my condition on Thursday (tired, sore, painful skin) I think a fresh attempt will yield more success.

So the training Tuesday and Wednesday (coupled with doing pretty heavy physical work this week) scuppered my chances of success on Thursday. Which is a shame, but should hopefully yield results on a more long term basis (i.e. I'll have more crush).

It's funny isn't it?

Monday I think I went somewhere and did something but can't for the life of me remember what.

Tuesday went to a pleasant(ish) quarry with G-bob. Did a coule of problems but whilst the quarry was pleasant of outlook it was limited of potential.

Wednesday went to Earl with G-bob, I will say no more than this.

Thursday went to Kilnsey with Guru. Tried bouldering out the start of Massala Martyr, I' quite keen to get a rope on this. Then had a few redpoints on Comedy before dispatching after tweaking my clipping strategy. Happy days.

On the importance of angles

On Thursday I headed back the Kilnsey with the Guru. This time it was somewhat drier so game on, it was however very hot so Metal Mickey was not really on the cards. Time for something different. Warm up first. I managed my first route at Kilnsey and my first sport flash, yay, however this was just the a 6b (can't remember the name) so perhaps not greatly impressive...
Then, as is traditional, I tried and failed on a 7a+. At least this time I managed to get a decent way up it before resorting to bolt-to-bolt.
Anyway then it was Comedy for me and Pantomime for the Guru. Guru was up first and on-sighted Pantomime in good style, it looked tricky from the ground but I am assured that once you start climbing the moves just fall into place, hmmmm we'll see.
Anyway then on to Comedy. I have previously had an attempt on this route. It turned into a bit of a farce though involving belaying difficulties and dog rescue which meant I had to be lowered of from half-height to rescue Bammers. Anyway this time I went up to half-height jug, had a rest, bolt-to-bolted the top then lowered off. I had another rest whilst Guru onsighted something else (that looked desperate) then I had a redpoint and fell off the move to the cigar hold. I wasn't pumped but the left hand sidepull that you go off to get the cigar hold was damp and felt very glassy and my hand just slid out of it. Anyway I then trundled up to the top and stripped it. Time was short so I couldn't get another RP in. Guru tried for a fourth onsight of the day but it wasn't to be (very close though). I definitely have a lot to learn still...
Friday evening I went to the Depot with everybody else, mosh pit. It was a good evening and I now realise I need to steepen up my board big time. The Beastmaker board at the Depot is bonza, and whilst it is perhaps too steep for my current abilities it is certainly indicative of the direction I should move the board in. My board is currently at the 25-30 degree sort of angle, which was ideal for me when I first built it, but now I think I need proper steepness to (try) and develop the sort of dirty filthy burl that was in evidence on Friday evening. Time to break out the power tools and hit 45 I think...

And just for you Jon.

The people have spoken...

... so I'll keep it brief.

Went Kilnsey.
Wet.
Went to Whitehouses.
Worked Growled.
Went home.

With:
Bammers
Guru
Tanners

Is that succinct enough for ya?
:o)

Water water everywhere and not a rock to climb.

I don't think I've got breaking news here when I say it's been a bit on the rainy side of late. However yesterday morning the Guru and I were engaged in an interweb debate about whether to venture out. I think we were both keen, but also neither of us wanted to drag the other out for a washout day, this was compounded by the fact that we were both carrying (very minor) injuries.
Anyhoo, after a bit of too-ing and fro-ing a Kilnsey based plan was hatched. I was not overly confident given recent cragside reports but the Guru assured me "Comedy never gets wet". He also advised me to bring wellies, good knowledge the stream was like a grade 5 white water rapid (or something...), the dog was almost lost in the crossing.
Anyway up the hill slightly late as usual to meet the reliably on time Guru who is grim of face. Everything is wet, even Comedy. There is a slight ray of hope though, the 7a+ at the left end of the crag is dry, as is Metal Mickey and Metal Guru. So we "warm up" on the 7a+, the Guru eases his way up, climbing smoothly, considering his moves, pausing for efficient rest and making steady relentless progress, he fairly effortlessly makes the lower-off. He even has the courtesy to pretrend that he found it tricky whilst I lower him. My turn. I'm a bit cold, can't feel my hands, overgrip everything and essentially bolt to bolt it before lowering off below the top too demotivated to make the last push up the easy finish. I don't think I've quite got this sport climbing warm-up thing down pat just yet... Kindly to the end the Guru claims that he wants to top-rope it again as a warm down so it's actually a good thing that I lowered off... Too kind sir, too kind.
Anyway on to Metal Mickey which we have both tried briefly before. This time conditions felt good and pretty soon we both had what we feel are workable sequences. But we also had very sore skin and no time, so a quick gear removal, pack up and we were off.
I think Metal Mickey is just about the perfect route for me. It is very bouldery, essentially it is two boulder problems on top of one another, but it is not so short as to feel like you're just putting on a rope to get a route tick rather than a bouldering tick. I.e. it is a proper route. Also it appears to stay pretty dry come what may, and that can only be a good thing given the current situation...
So I set out at the start of the Lime season wanting to do an 8a, and I haven't (failed again, spotting a pattern?). However I think I probably could have done an 8a I just didn't devote much time to the ones I tried, I guess they failed to inspire, and routes I have spent time on are a notch or two tougher. Right now I'd happily forgo a relatively quick tick of an 8a (assuming I could get one) for a more prolonged effort on the two routes that have grabbed me. They being Metal Mickey and Grooved Arete. Of these two I'm pretty much certain that the higher grade route (Metal Mickey, 8b) will be the eaier to complete as it suits me and I'm motivated to do it. I am equally motivated to do Grooved Arete but I feel that this will be harder for me (featuring as it does the ever elusive endurance) even though it gets 8a+. As ever grades are just a guide, climb what motivates and inspires.

Finaly I apologise for recent posts, they have been long, wordy and seriously lacking in the multi-media department. I shall endevour to rectify the multi-media aspect. The wordiness is because I want to explain a bit more beyond simply where I went and what I did, I've got a log book for that, but try to explain a bit of the why also. If it's boring don't read it (does anybody anyway) or post a comment telling me to shut up.

Right I'm off to concoct a negotiating strategy that will give me a pass out over the weekend, I may be some time...

Bridestones Revisited

I've never really got on with Bridestones. I can see the appeal and understand when people say "it's one of the top bouldering crags in Yorkshire" and such like but.... well we just don't quite see eye to eye. Which is a shame as I only live five minutes from it. Anyway over the years I have spent some time there and ticked my way through several of the problems but never really had a huge burning desire to go there on a quest for crush, it always seemed a bit low-key, picnics and family days, throwing balls for the dog and lounging with occasional forays onto the rock. But today I was keen to climb but pressed for time. All of my BIG THINGS TO DO are at least an hour away so they were off the menu, what to do?
But then inspiration struck, there is a problem at Bridies called The Worm and it's always been a bit of a weird 'un. The thing is it's a traverse which then finishes up and up problem, but there has been a bit of a lack of clarity over which up problem it finished up. There is an arete problem it could finish up, and then another problem a bit further round which it could also finish up.
Now I always thought that it finished up the bit further round problem and would marvel at the slopey scallops that you'd have to pull on to do this, it looked lovely but hard. Then I saw a video on Yorkshiregirt.com here and this finished up the arete, which made the given grade seem, well, generous. Various debates were had with various people with varying levels of knowledge and the upshot was? Well it was all a bit unresolved...
Anyway Yorkshiregrit.com changed the grade of the problem to 7b (from 7c) and the world kept turning. However I noticed this morning that some had posted a comment stating that the finish I originally thought was right had been done and the feeling was 7c+ would be appropriate.
Well given a short window of opportunity and a new piece of information about a local curiousity what else was I to do? Me and Bammers loaded up the van and chugged up the hill, a quick tromp across the moor and we assumed the position at the tilted pinnacle.
It took me a while to work a sequence for the end, I wasn't wrong those scallops were slopey and you need to go a long way the the last hold (well the last hold before the awkward, fluffable but relatively easy finish). But after a hours contemplation/attempts a sequence was in place. It all felt pretty steady apart from the last move which is (I may have mentioned this already) HUGE. Then I started to work the first bit of the traverse, this was worked out more quickly but was trickier than I was anticipating, hmmmmm. I also noticed that there was a footblock on the arete that was pretty loose so I decided that in the interest of Bridies conservation (the place is already trashed, no reason to make it worse) then the footblock would have to be eliminated. A quick sequence re-work and that was fine (and not really any harder). Now for the link. I was a bit concerned about this because the start was a bit more climby than I'd anticipated and the last move crux could spit me off all day long if it chose to do so. Oh well, on we go. First attempt I got round the arete but didn't get the next hold at the right angle, was set up all wrong for the next move so stepped off. Second go got to the last move and greased off a sloper with my right hand, then sun had come out from the cloud cover and was burning into the sloper, eeeK! Third go and it all went smooth, solid 7c+ this way I think.
I then did it the other way finishing up the arete, which was a complete scrittle-fest but much easier, 7b seems fair.
Anyway apologies for all this grade talk, I know some people don't like it but it is kind of essential to the story in this case.
So in summary:
The Worm - 7C+
Traverse the face of the tilted pinnacle starting at the crack, stay low round the arete and finish up Ear'oule via a long move. Excellent

The Shortened Worm - 7B
Traverse the face of the tilted Pinnacle starting at the crack, finish up the arete. OK if you like that sort of thing, where that sort of thing is a scrittly escape from the main difficulties of the problem.

Over and out.

Rise of the Crooks

Yesterday I ventured up to Crookrise with G-unit and Bammers. The weather was looking less than fantastic but the alternative was spending the day with the mother-in-law so I just asked myself "what would Les Dawson do?". Up the hill we went. I was keen to look at Jasons Roof and G was after Barry Kingsize and The Fly.
We got there and I had a blast on The Fly but discovered that the higher pocket was wet which pretty much stopped progress dead. On to Barry Kingsize, getting to the top move seemed easy but the final move to the top felt like a long way and weirdly committing. The landing is pretty good with a mat or two but there is an awkward block just back from the landing zone, you'd never hit it coming off but even so it weighs on the mind (or it weighed on my mind). Anyway several goes later and I latched the top and got stuck into the sitter. The moves on the sitter went in a few goes but the top move still felt hard. G was struggling with the top move also. It may well have been a bit damp which probably didn't help, there were short showers every couple of minutes and even though the wind was drying things quickly I guess moisture would still be present. Anyway enough excuses.

Then there was a bit of a better spell so rather than carry on with Barry Kingsize Sitter (which was rapidly eating my hands) we moved on to The Fly. Now a few years ago this would have been my thing but this visit led toa realisation. I have been entirely focussed on steep stuff of late, which has been brilliant but...
Slab technique has definitely suffered, previously I would have done this by just standing up on my feet but today I was trying to pull myself up. It didn't work, I think with a bit more time and dry, crisp conditions it would go down but it was interesting to have such a clear demonstration of how my slab technique has waned. I'm not surprised by this, or even especially upset by it, after all I'm sure with a bit of training it would come back pretty quickly. However it has been a practical confirmation of one of my theoretical musings.
Both me a G got to similar points on the Fly, neither of which were the top, onwards.

Then tried the groove left of The Fly, I don't think I'll say any more than that about this.

We trudged off to find a problem called Karjala which had been recommended to us. Managed to flash this, G seemed to have lost all SYKE at this point and despite my encouragement didn't really get his balls out for a proper go. I'd hope he'd go back and crush when the SYKE returns.

Whilst doing Karjala the weather took a serious turn for the worse, it looked set for solid rain and feeling tired we considered heading back to the car but after walking up the hill it was felt that the day should be fully milked. So we head down through the trees to Jasons Roof. I had a play on the moves as the heavens opened. I think I got most of the moves and a semi-workable sequence. It seems pretty hard to me but I think it might favour a slightly taller fellow. Keen to get back to this though as it is a quality line, it would have to be to get me back up that hill.

Finally we dropped in to Eastby to look at a Purchon dyno that G wanted to check out. It was huge, 230cm, with a poor sloper to catch at the top. We had a couple of throws each in the rain but didn't get terribly near, very timing specific I think. Looks mega though, I think it will be to far for me but I'd throw myself at it again.

Cringlebarrow

Another visit to Cringlebarrow on Tuesday. The weather was awful as I drove past Blackburn, but then it always is. Is Blackburn the wetest most depressing place in the world? However the rain was still beating down at Preston, but I kept the faith, fortune favours the hopelessly optimistic. Still raining at Lancaster, hmmm this really isn't looking good. Oh well too far gone to turn back now. As I came off the motorway there were one or two dry-ish looking spots on the road, maybe the gamble had paid off? However as I parked up and trudged up the footpath the ground was very wet, optimism was replaced with resignation to the fact that I had nothing better to do than walk up to a wet piece of rock, then walk back.
However upon arrival things didn't look that bad. The start of Curtain Call (the problem I wanted to do) was soaked but everything further right was pretty dry. So first off I worked on linking the end of Curtain Call into White Venom which is possible but quite hard and will be desperate after having done Curtain Call. The I ground upped White Venom (a three bolt sport route) which is a nice highball. Apart from the soaking wet pulling on dead tree roots top-out, yikes! So the link up of Curtain Call into White Venom is definitely on, I'm not sure if it's been done before (Greg?) but his Godskins probably did it as a training exercise at some point, then he probably did it there and back. Anyway Curtain Call is given font 8A, I think the link from Curtain Call into White Venom is probably font 7C-ish and then White Venom is Fr7b+. So in combination that would give? I dunno, a Font 8A+/B?? Or maybe a route grade would be more appropriate, but I have even less idea about them, 8b+?? Anyway I'm SYKED to try this link.
The I did Ichabod Spooklemous (sharp and painful), Discohesion SDS (soft but desperate top-out due to extreme wetness) and Revenant (hard). All good. So just a few of the routes to do here and then that will only leave the hard stuff to tick. Nice little venue, I likes it.

Cheery-bye.

Cream Tea Day (with a tiny bit of climbing)

Went to G-units this morn. We debated with great indifference about potential venues and in the end entrusted our fate to the flip fo a coin. The two venues of choice were Langdale or Silverdale and the mighty tuppence of fate chose the Dale of Lang. Onward rock warriors...
Anyway several miles up the motorway the sky was looking somewhat leaden and the cows in the adjacent fields were doing something that may or may not have indicated that rain was or wasn't either happening or about to happen, or something. Given the dampness potential we unveiled our secret stash of wisdom and bailed of the motorway early for Silverdale.
First port of call was Cringlesport. I had unfinished business here in the form of Brane Damage. On a previous session it should have gone down but fear of success (coupled with an excess of letting go) had yielded nowt but failure. After a warm up and an attempt at high altitude G-unit-icide I got my crush on. ICED LIKE PAPPA SMURF. Shamone. Then I had a play on a Gaskins special and a top secret pro-jay shhhhh. I think I've got a workable sequnce for the Gaskins but will need tres good conditions. As for the other thing, it's gonna be hard but I think do-able with plenty muchos burlificating.
Then on to Trowbarrow, where the nemesis of the crag was the poxy traverse of Red Wall. Previously the G-unit and I have both failed on this but today gravity was our friend, twas a double-doody-first-attempt-win-win-crushty-fest.
Reward CREAM TEA.
Then home, a good day.
G has footage of Brane Damage so should he upload it I'll do a likkle-linky-loo...

Ta-dah...

Brane Damage from GCW on Vimeo.

Aimless wanderings of an old fool

To climb without focus,motivation and drive is for me (in terms of getting anything done) a pretty wasteful exercise.
Went to Kilnsey on Thursday and didn't feel the SYKE. Met up with the Guru, Waffles, G-unit and J-Kay. I had half-baked plans before getting there and had failed to develop any solid aims so in the end I failed to do WYSIWYG as a warm up for failing on everything else.
Grooved Arete felt horrible conditions to me, though nobody else seemed to be struggling. Comedy felt like a goer but attempts were curtailed by a dog chasing Bammers down onto the road - not happy (me or Bammers). Hmmm, I think I have too many unfinished pieces of business at Kilnsey and I need to get focussed. But what to choose?
Comedy - I can probably do this quickly but that would be the only reason for choosing it
Metal Mickey - is very bouldery so suits me but could take a long time to link it.
Grooved Arete - isa bit too long and sustained for me, but is very good and would be good training for further route based aspirations.
Hmmmm, I think I'll probably back-burner Comedy, or have it as the reserve option should the other two be unavailable. But which of the two left should I focus on? I think I'll have a ponder...

One for all and all for one, Muskerhounds are always ready.

8:00 a.m. Thursday morning, the boss is still in bed and lard and I am eating toast watching the Muskerhounds, old-skool-eighties classics ROOL.
Yet again it's been a while. I can't remember exactly what and when has gone down but here's a brief rundown.
I've been to Kilnsey a bit, Grooved Arete is still on the list and Metal Mickey has joined it. As have a couple of other things but they're top secret so shhhhh....
Also been to Silverdale, went to Cringlesport and did a route called Discohesion (boulder problem wearing a rope really) and then failed to do Brane Damage, next time. Quite a nice bit of rock. Also went to Hutton Roof which is another nice bit of rock, did several problems/solos here including a flash of The Cause.
Heading off to Kilnsey today.
I'm really getting into this sport climbing, I'm finding it enjoyable even though I haven't really cliimbed anything yet. I'm still not tempted by any of these thirty metre stamina beasts but the extended bouldering sort of stuff is fun. I am however awful at clipping, to the extent that I am practising clipping on the board at home (how sad is that?). Another thing is the time involved in doing sport climbing, it really is a full day event to get a good session going, whereas bouldering can be done in just an hour or so. Sadly I seldom have full days free for climbing so I tend to leave the crag feeling like I should have done more. Hey-ho.
Anyway Dogtanian is about to get on board a ghost ship, sounds exciting. Until next time....

Death of a problem, or is it...

Went to Silverdale with G-unit yestermorn. Conditions were poor but we were worse. Not a good session nuff said.

Then G met Tanman at Denham where the bronzed adonis was keen to get Snatch done. He's been close previously so was hopeful that it would go down this session. Sadly on a "feeling good" go he pulled off a left hand crimp. Aaaargh.

When I heard of these events last night I was in part saddened that this problem had been so short lived, partially confident that a new sequence would be workable and a little bit confused about which hold had snapped. The more I considered this breakage the more convinced I was that the hold I used for my left couldn't snap off, well it could but it's a wierd scallopy thing rather than a thin crimp so unlikely to snap. At last curiousity got the better of me and with the aid of an extended lunch hour I quested off to Denham. As I arrived I could clearly see the problem was well chalked and....


My left hand hold was still on the wall, yay! It would seem Tanman had been using a slightly higher crimp for his left hand to set up for the move to the jug, a hold that I didn't use. So whilst the rockface isn't in the same condition as for the first ascent the sequence of handholds is. In fact Bronze-a-saurus did me a favour by snapping off the higher hold he has prevented cheaty easy sequences being utilised :o)

Anyway I'm happy that the problem still stands and maybe a repeat will happen, get to it Tanners...

Busy doing nothing, working the whole route through...

It's been a while, lets not dwell on exactly how long. A period of time has passed. And how have I filled this time? Am I set to unleash a ticklist of such proportions as to inspire and impress the reader in equal measure? Not so much. A blow by blow account of my activities over this passed time would test both my memory and a readers patience so in short I have tried some and ticked naught.
How sad, what a waste of my time. Well no because today I had something of a revelation. The scales fell from my eyes and the truth was (in part) revealed. I'll let you in on a secret that has only just become apparent to me. When climbing a sport route you can fall off from above a bolt and not die in a horrible and painful fashion, in point of fact it is even possible to fall from above a bolt and not even hurt yourself.
Not much of a revelation? Well from the comfort of your (and indeed my) armchair no it isn't. However on the sharp end all scientific bumpff regarding loading forces and breaking strains becomes a bit academic, after all you are about to test these theoretical limitations in a manner which would be very much final should the lab technician have sneezed whilst placing that crucial decimal point...
Anyway for me falling onto bolts has been, well it hasn't been truth be told. But today I took a whipper (of about a foot) after climbing above a bolt. Progress.
So now I'm keen for Grooved Arete at Kilnsey, Chimes at the Tor, Caviar at Rubicon and something at Malham. If I could get two of these four ticked this year (hell even one) I'd be Mr Happy.
Off bouldering tomorrow in Silverdale, which is nice...

This report is to report that there is nothing to report.

Can't remember exaclty when my last blog was and how it fits in with my ongoing assault on Peak lime. It's a bit academic really as Ihaven't actually done anything since my last missive. A brief run-down of activities would be:
- Tried Caviar, found a couple of moves tricky but I think it's possible for me to do this. It does climb nicely but felt harder and more sustained than I was hoping. On a slightly seperate note Rubicon shut me down in general, I'm hoping this is just "first few visits" issues and once I've got my head round the crag and style things will flow a bit more, but for now it all feels a bit awkward and out of balance. Oh well time will tell...
- Tried Chimes, I'm fairly confident this will go down. The conditions were horrible when I tried it really hot a humid so the soler/pinch thing for the left below the lip felt horrendous. Better conditions, we'll see...
- Been out to Peel beach on the Isle of Man a couple of times with Spud. Didn't realy climb much as humidity and awkward tide times coupled with extreme heat were demotivating. But I did get a bunch of crag shots which (at some point in the next ten years) I may well turn into a topo.

Anyway now I'm stuck on the Isle of Man for a week with really tricky tidetimes making climbing pretty much impossible. So time to try some new things. Yesterday was jetskiing which was a very fun way of getting wet but I can see how its participants could be unpopular. It was interesting talking to the guy who took me out as he was also very understanding of the fact that jetskiers were widely regarded as arses. I guess the trouble is some (lots?) of them are tits, out razzing about the bay at popular beaches in the middle of summer (showing off?) rather than trying to find a quiet spot. Curiously the guy I was with and his mates are the people who go out and help boats/yachts/people/whatever that get in trouble at sea, and they use their hated jetskis to go to the aid of the haters. I guess it's like many other activities where the mass perception is skewed by a few idiots. At the end of the day most of these "extreme" (god I wish I could think of a better all encompassing term) activities could (and frequently are) quite easily enjoyed by the participants without negatively impinging non-participants. It's not so much what you do, rather whether or not you're a twat while you do it. This is applicable to climbing as much as anything else. Go forth climb and have fun, but be aware your actions affect the publics general perception of climbers as a group not just its perception of you. God save us from twats.

Anyway tonight I'm having a blast on a mountain bike. Second time and I really enjoyed it last time so should be good.

More Peak lime time.

Tuesday evening went to that Tor. Wanted to try Chimes but belay lack meant back to Staminaband, yawn. This is hard. Managed to get a link to halkway through Powerband but was as boxed as a boxed thing put in a box. Then pottered around for a bit, then tried Pump Up The Power. I've tried it once before briefly but this time it seemed to work better, I'm keen to get on this again. but maybe as a route. As a final flurry I tried Weedkiller Traverse Footless and dropped it at the end when instead of slapping for a hold I slapped for the bit of rock next to the hold, tiddley-pom...
This evening went to Rubicon and got shut down. It's all fiddly little fingery biddly-boddley nib nobs there. And painful, grrrr. Anyway Katherine was trying Caviar (and looking mighty smooth on it) and I got really SYKED to try it, but I didn't want to disrupt her Feng Shui as she seemed to be in the zone so instead made a mental note: TRY THIS ROUTE NEXT TIME. Instead I trundled round to Salar which is, as everyone says, a one move wonder. I didn't do the move, but I'm not mega SYKED for this route anyway. It was just something to try. So did nothing at Rubber-con. In an effort to ease my shame at such failure I called in to thr Tor (at 10:20PM) and t'was deserted. How novel. Anyway a quick bish bash bosh and it became apparent that whilst my fingers were feeling the Rubicon pain my arms still had the ummph to drag a weary carcass across Weedkiller Footless, so not a total waste of a session.
The heavens surely did open as I drove Macc-wards. I hope the glorious Peak lime survives this precipitation for I have but two evenings of crush remaining. Monday and Tuesday eve will see me venturing forth through Buxton again for a final onslaught. I don't think I've yet found a route that has really grabbed me, there a things I'd like to get back on and give a whirl and all that but I am a monster that feeds on passion for a problem or route. It being nice or classic or soft or whatever often isn't enough. I've got to really want to do it to do it. Maybe Caviar will be this thing.

The Tor again, surely not...

Went to the Tor Thursday evening. Planned to try Chimes but it was busy busy busy so tried Rattle and Hump instead. Didn't go well, I was trying to save myself for a Chimes attampt (that never materialised). Then messed about, then managed to do the start of Staminaband into Powerband (first time I've done this) so that was quite good. But general impression was not a lot achieved. Back on Monday then may try Rubicon on Thursday, woot woot.

Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor Tor

Went to the Tor again on Monday evening. In the absence of a chum my only option was bouldering. So got stuck into Staminaband. I think I'm making some progress but it is very slow going, I'm finding it very hard. I think the start bit (i.e. the bit that isn't Powerband) is harder than Powerband, and by a pretty significant margin. And Powerband isn't easy at the grade IMHO. The link is looking pretty tough. Having said that I think if I can get through the start (something I haven't managed yet) I will be able to link it. I'm not saying I'll do it straight away or anything just that I feel I'll be able to make progress through the second part rather than just hitting a wall beyond which I cannot progress. I still expect that last move to be a heart breaker (should I ever get there). Hey-ho.

Back there tomorrow evening with buddies this time so I'll be mostly dangling off Chimes and renewing my dislike of sport climbing. Or maybe I'll enjoy myself...

How to make friends and influence people.

On Thursday evening I ventured forth to the Tor. I'd commited to going out with a friend who rarely climbs and I knew that the Tor was pretty much the worst place in the world to take a non-obsessive climber but hey I'm a selfish twat so fuck him. Actually I was willing to go elsewhere (though undeniably keenest for the Tor) but he wasn't arsed and was happy just to get out for some fresh air, eat some biscuits and watch the world go by. So Tor it is, yay!

We were meeting Sam there but we arrived before him (he was busy waiting in traffic for an Oasis concert) so bouldering was going to be the first course of the evening. I had a notion to try Staminaband as Powerband had gone down quickly and pretty easily. I don't whether I was tired, it was bad conditions or Staminaband is brutal but I got pretty well shut down. Hummph. I think conditions were less than classic as several people appeared to be struggling but enough with the excuses already. Anyway I managed to do all the moves in isolation. Hardly cause for mass celebration though as the idea of linking them all is a waaaaaaay off. Ho-hum. Also whilst Powerband got crushed I think the last move shimmy-shankered my left hand somewhat. It's not espcially painful but feels a bit weird and weak in the palm area. Maybe Staminaband should be back burnered for now.

So by now Sam has arrived and after he has a bash at this and that we toy with the prospect of getting out ropes and harnesses. I had a vague notion of getting back on Rattle and Hump but lack of beastliness means that I am more prone to aimless wandering and pondering. Sam suggests Chimes, I laugh and inform him that it is far too long, he mentions that lowering from the lip is permitted at 8a. What? Tell me more? This is interesting. So we get on Chimes, Sam does all the moves, I do all the moves apart from a long move above the lip. I'm hoping that I'm just powered out and a fresh attempt on a new day will see the move bested. The rest of it feels pretty steady I think so maybe this will be it, my great sport objective realised. Time will tell...

Then went home and had a massive takeaway pizza and watched a shit vampire film, can life get any better than this?

Back to the Tor again this week, see you out there kids...

Busy doing nothing...

Went to Widdop on Sunday with family and the G-unit. Spud did a couple of slabs and failed to top out on Red Edge again, next time. G wandered about trundling up various bobs and bits. I didn't put my shoes on. The only thing I want to do there is Fight On Black and it was too hot (or more accurately I was too lazy to even find out if it was too hot). Then went home and had a cream tea a barbeque and cheesecake. I imagine I'm pushing twenty stone and a coronary now...

Tuesday evening I met G-bob and Chattery Sam at Longridge. It was hot, sweaty and greasy. I felt deeply uninspired. Ended up not doing any real climbing, just messing about trying to find hands-off rests and footlessing. All very entertaining and pointless I' sure. Longridge is a bit of a wierd crag. The holds are all generally good (in that they are mostly positive and/or large) but the conditions are critical. I've been a couple of times with reasonable conditions and felt SYKED to try stuff but this time it felt grim and I just lost interest. Mind you got a couple of decent looking lines to go back and try when the grease disipates.

Thursday possibly at the Tor. Debating between Staminaband and Rattle and Hump, choices schmoices....

Just a quickie...

Just a brief update. Been back to the mighty Tor a couple more times. On Monday it was in grim condition, I tried Powerband and got all the moves but there was no chance of linking it (for me) because my hands were wet after touching a couple of holds. The holds weren't seeping or anything, just very warm and humid, yeuck. Met Ru for the first time. Another very friendly and knowledgable chap, wonderful. I won't say what he was doing in case it is for some reason top secret but suffice it to say I was mighty impressed with his performance given the awful conditions.
This evening back to the Tor. The aim was get Powerband and then get stuck into a route. Got Powerband first attempt, in fact it was my warm up, very unexpected but nice. Then messed around trying numerous other problems in a half-arsed fashion whilst Mike and Sam made progress on Ben's Roof and Powerband, neither were ultimately successful but I'm sure they will be in due course. Then I tried Rattle and Hump on a rope, and ooooooof tough paper round. At the time I was disheartened but after an hour or so's reflection I have realised that I was probably a bit trashed and that I was closer than I thought to doing the moves. So I'll get back on it fresh some time soon and we'll take it from there.

Tour of the Tor

Having previously briefly tried Ben's roof a couple of weeks ago I headed over to the Tor Tuesday evening with the intention of crushage. I met Mike there and got my angry eyes in. Sadly I forgot to engage brain so completely bished my footwork sequence through the crux. Rather than realising I'd got the numbers wrong instead I scratched my head and carried on trying the same thing and expecting a different result. Should have used SCIENCE. Finally the light dawned and I remembered the right thing to do,only I was now to boxed to do it. Went home. Mike was looking like he could get it done with a bit of work, he floats through the start moves with the grace of a short balding middle aged swan, and that's a thing of beauty my friends.

Back Thursday evening with Rick as chaperone, he wasn't even registering a simple enthusiasm rating on the SYKEOMETER. But still gamely put on his shoes and did a bit of sitting on the mat and touching holds, sweet skills. I warmed up with my first attempt but dropped off with painfull fingers (not a classic warm up but hey-ho), second attempt felt cruisey but a foot slip saw me stood on the ground looking foolish. Third attempt and it was in the bag, steady eddy, really should have done it on Tuesday but pleased with the tick nonetheless.

Rick then got into Powerband, I also had a dabble. Hard last move still, ooooof, something to come back to. Also had a go (literally A go) at Pump Up The Power, quite keen to get on this as a route maybe. Get me a sport 8 tick to complete the triumverate, yeeee-haaaaaaaaaa....

Isle of Man Again...

I've been in the Isle of Man. It really is a funny little place full of weird people with strange insular views. It's like little Englanders, but even more little, crazy.
Anyway I find my regular jaunts over there quite dull to be honest. There is climbing but it's not amazing and as I invariably lack my own transportation and have to rely on lifts and favours worked around rain and tides things rapidly get frustating.
Anyway the amazing thing about going to the Isle of Man is the chance to climb with a genuine, proper, belts and braces legend. Dougie Hall. This is the man whose diary was published and called the Chew Valley guide. He is everything I want from a legend, possessed of an enviable climbing heritage, short, friendly and devoid of any dress sense. Brilliant. Anyway we had an evening out climbing at Santon in a little gully along the side of a small bay reached by scrambling down a wall of vertical grass after walking for half a mile along the cliff top path and stopping at a point that looked exactly like every other point on the path. You could spend a lifetime searching for this venue and never find it, but then thats what climbing's like here. The occassional gem in the midst of a lot of pap. Anyway I spent an enjoyable couple of hours in the local climbers company, and very nice it was so cheers chaps.
I also revisited Laxey boulders and reclimbed a few problems that I have previously tried and also finally managed to force my way across a traverse that has become something of an Isle of Man obsession. I have mentioned it previously here, and at the time I suggested a grade of 8A. Well now it's done I'm going to stick with that. It felt very hard to me, easily as hard as problems of that grade that I've done recently. However it is not really in a style that suits me, being very powerfull and fingery. Anyway there we go, if people want to journey to the Isle of Man and repeat this problem and downgrade it then knock yourselves out. I've even done a PDF guide which I'll put on the Vimeo UKB group.
And now I'm back home and the weather has been awful. Ho-hum, of to Ravens Tor on Tuesday evening to (try and) crush Ben's Roof. Then on Thursday I may possibly be back that way (or Rubicon) to either try some more bouldering or get on some sport!!

NOTE:
1) Not everyone from the Isle of Man is mental, lots of them are very nice and the climbers there are an enthusiastic and welcoming bunch. But there's lots of nutters.

Success? Not with my reputation...

[NOTE: The following was written on Saturday the 9th May but this is the first opportunity I've had to get it ONLINE]

Thursday evening I headed over to Sheffield, I'd arranged to buy some Dragons and also meet a couple of friends at the Works. But the weather was looking nice so I decided to head over a little earlier than planned and call in at Ravens Tor. I'd been having vague notions of trying Ben's Roof and Powerband for a while and this seemed like the opportunity to get stuck in. I was heading over from my mums house (in Macclesfield) and the first thing I realised was just how close Ravens Tor is. It is probably only half an hour door to rock if you get a good run and know where you're going, which suggests future visits will be on the cards when visiting the parentals.

Anyway I arrived and realised I really didn't have a clue about this place, I didn't know any problems at all having only been once or twice before back in the day. I knew vaguely where Powerband was but not where it started, and I also knew roughly where Ben's Roof went, but it looked very sequencey so I settled in for a “working it out” session. Luckily a kindly young lady took pity on me and demonstrated a sequence which saved me a lot of work. Duly informed of a workable technique I set to work and in the end I did all the moves and managed to do a couple of decent links. I'm fairly confident I can do this on my next session, however time was moving on and I wanted to try Powerband. Powerband is pretty steady until the last move, which is brutal. I couldn't even do it in isolation. Although to be fair I was probably getting pretty tired by now and I only had a couple of quick goes as it was time to depart.

Off to the Foundry, bloody hell this area has changed. It all looks like a young professionals wet dream nowadays, obviously the inside of the Foundry didn't appear to have changed in the last 10 years. Anyway a quick exchange of readies for footwear and I am now the proud owner of a pair of Dragons. In the past I have mocked the multi-shoe owning climber, but now I stand proud amongst you my comrades. Mind you they felt bloody uncomfortable compared to my lovely baggy Verdes, this multiple shoe phase may be short lived....

Then the Works where I spent a couple of gentle hours on the red circuit with a couple of friends. Very nice it was, I was feeling pretty battered at this stage but still had an enjoyable time. At the end of the session I had a brief attempt at some classic training/posing test-pieces. First off I went for the newcomer, the Beastmaker and managed to hang the 45's for a short time (about 7 seconds) then the campus board where I did 1-4-7 for the first time but failed to 1-5-8 and finally the chin up bar where I amazed myself by doing a one armer with each arm. Obviously these “feats” are nothing more than party tricks but that doesn't mean they're not fun, trouble is on the odd occasion when I do try these things it's invariably at the end of a session which means (a) I'm not performing at my best and probably more importantly (b) I'm tired so not moving in a crisp and co-ordinated fashion, instead my sloppy slapping is more likely to result in injury than improved performance. Hey-ho...

Leap forward to Saturday, I am heading over to the Isle of Man for a few days torture at the in-laws. I'm sailing from Heysham in the afternoon so a plan is hatched to head up that way early doors and pop in to Silverdale for a raid on Hyning and Woodwell to crush Transgenic and Not Bad Dave SDS. I've got Dragons now so surely these will be crushed to dust? The weather was supposed to be awful but in fact was pretty good, there was a wet streak next to the pocket at the end of Transgenic but all the holds were dry so things were looking good. However I'm an arse. When will I learn. I cannot warm up on an 8A. So instead of getting the body prepped for bearing down instead I pull on and get pumped and powered out. Also my skin is feeling very sore for some reason and my back is feeling stiff and sore, but these are just excuses at the end of the day I ruined any chance I had of doing this problem in this session by leaping on it and assuming I could just monster it, I can't. Obviously it didn't go down but I did manage my best link yet so not a complete failure, just stupid stupid stupid. I was rewarded for this idiocy with a sore left elbow and shoulder and shooting pains down my arm, hmmmm.....

Anyway on to Woodwell. Not Bad Dave is surely in the bag, I mean I've got the right boots for the heel hook move bring it on. But yet again I was to be denied. My skin was too sore and my core too tired. I went for a coffee and cake and then tried again, with much the same result. So not only had my stupidity on Transgenic cost me any chance of doing it, it had also cost me any chance of doing this, arse. The truly enormously stupid thing about this is that the evening before in debate with the G-unit the proposed strategy was warm-up crushing Not Bad Dave then go on to Transgenic. I am absolutely sure that if I had done this I would have crushed Not Bad Dave and would certainly have done no worse on Transgenic. Hindsight and all that. Anyway they are both good problems so I'm happy to return to them again at some point, the rock isn't going anywhere.

Living for the weekend...

Saturday morning I dropped the wife and offspring off at Liverpuddle airport as they head over to the in-laws. Once deposited I headed West to try my luck in the cave. The cave is somewhere I've been meaning to visit for a while. I've heard all manner of different things about it. Some good, some not so good. Everybody tends to start describing it in the same way.
There's no real obvious lines
Arbitary starts and finishes
Spanks you on a first visit

And then depending on the individual expressing the opinion will either say it's amazing or it's a bit shit. Different folks, different strokes I suppose. Anyway anything that can be so consistently described and yet give such variety of opinion has to be worth investigating, if only to allow me to form my own view.

Saturday afternoon in Llandudno was B U S Y. Some sort of Victorian funfair thing going on. Anyway once I'd managed to get through and parked up at the cave I went for a nosey. I was meeting Sam there, he's been before so could show me the lines etc. But I was there way before Sam so got stuck in to what some other folks were trying which turned out to be Lou Ferino and Rockattrocity. Then Sam turned up with Baz and was trying Trigger Cut.
I found one move of Lou Ferino desperate but the rest of it pretty steady. Rockattrocity I should have done but dropped it at the end. Sam was looking good on Trigger Cut, he hadn't done it when I left but he was looking very solid on it so I wouldn't be surprised to hear that he did it later on.

So what did I make of the cave? Well I didn't leave feeling like I'd been completely spanked, but then I was expecting to get shut down big time so expectations were low. I did think that it was all a bit no clear lines/random starts and finishes though. Overall.....hmmm... lets say not my favourite venue. I don't feel in any great rush to return, though I probably will to get Rockattrocity done at some point, but then will I return? I dunno. It's a long way to go and to be honest I much prefer the Silverdale limestone which leads us nicely onto....

Sunday. Early start, picked up G-bob and bashed up the motorway to Fairy Steps. The predicted wall to wall sunshine had not materialised so we arrived at Aeons wall to find it dripping wet. Hmmm. Anyway lashings of toweling, chalk and brushing left enough holds sort of dry to try Aeon. Then I drew some thick chalk eyebrows on all the holds to soak up any water running down the face before it got to the holds. A few attempts working the moves then several goes later (and lots of ongoing drying) and it was job done. Just it time to as my skin, which has been in shocking condition since returnign from Font and was getting stupidly sore, finaly split. A split tip, can't remember when I last had one of those. Anyway it's a nice problem and it was satisfying to do it in very much less than ideal conditions, I'm keen to get back for Aeon Original (without the undercut), Aeon Reverse and Aeons. And I suppose Aeon Prow, but this looks nails. Anyway we cleaned off all the chalk from the face and then left for a celebratory cream tea.

After the cream tea we trudged up to Farleton. G wanted to show me New Rose, which looks hard and sharp, my skin was too sore to pull on but I'd go back to try it when (if?) my skin improves. Then we looked at a coupleof other problems, again sharp limestone coupled with sore skin meant little progress was made. Finally we went to Surfer Rosa which is a cool looking traverse line, or it would be scaled up 200%, as it is it's a bit small but still quite compelling. I gave it a few goes but to be honest I was feeling kitten weak and it felt hard. Still a nice line so I'll be back.

Back to work tonight, oh joy...

Taking little Fairy Steps...

Went to Fairy Steps today with the family. Met up with G-unit on arrival and he looked glum.

What's the crack daddy-o?

Turns out he's nicky-nacky-nooed his A2 pulley whilst unleashing the uber-crimp. I, ignoring the fact that he is actually quite knowledgable in all things musculo-skeletal 'an all dat, think he's being a girl and should really put his man pants back on.

Anyway we venture cragwards. G ain't climbin nuttin' sucka and her ladyship is wearied by the epic trek in so sits down for lunch with lard. I make an opening gambit by trying Axiom (I think it's called Axiom, the thing to the right of Walk Away anyway), classic warm-up material. Errr, no. It's extra large headed clout nails hard, not helped by the fact that I can't reach any holds. Then I realise that whilst I can't reach the high starting hold I can reach a HUUUUGE pinch out right (which is totally not in for the problem) and easily attain the break. Ergo the line is eliminate and morpho, next...
So then I try the crack left of Walk Away, V4? Ooooof, several goes in I contrive a woefull sequence to the break then refuse the top-out. A few vague attempts at the sitter which largely revolve around sitting and grunting and I'm feeling nicely demoralised. So why not try Walk Away? I'll tell you why not, it's hard. I mean properly hard. Anyway I pull off the ground, then step back onto the ground, shake my head, look at the sitter, shake head some more then Spud does some climbing. She doesn't fare much better and we head carwards feeling dejected and humiliated.

In a last gasp attempt to save face we call in on Aeon. I try the moves and pretty quickly get a sequence together. The hard bit seems to be positioning your feet for one move, rather than any of the actual moves, which is a bit wierd but hey-ho. So then as a break I do the dyno, should have flashed it but put no effort into the move to the top, did it second go. G gets it on videocordergram, and also shows me the footage of his pulley pop, the noise is loud and wince inducing and I start to realise he probably has fooked it, bad pennies G. Get well soon. Anyway back to Aeon, now I'm trying it without using the undercut which is apparently the 8A way. But I'm struggling with this foot movement bit so then I try it using the undercut (which is apparently 7C) and a bit of sequence adjustment and I've done all the moves for the easier way. But I'm not mega syked for it that way, I don't want it this way I want to follow the true path of the JG. But I give it a (completely pathetic) attempt anyway. Scuppered by pretty much the worst power fade I've ever had, criminal. Anyway skin inspection whilst driving home revealed that my tips are well and truly mullered, two weeks in Font, a week working with cement and a day on grit in warm conditions before hitting the lime had done for my skin. I think on a decent day with decent skin and no power fade Aeon should go down without too much of a fight, and no cheaty undercuts for me siree, no it's the way of the JG true believers..

Had another cream tea on the way home, this shits addictive.

First Cream Tea of the Season.

The grit season is over, temps have risen and the lime has been called. With the car thermometer showing high-teens temperatures I though I'd celebrate not touching grit until the cooling grasp of Autumn blesses this land by trundling off to...


Almscliff!!
Hey-ho. I only had one thing I wanted to do there and it isn't especially conditionsey so thought I 'd give it a whirl. Spud wanted to head either there or Widdop and Lard was keen to climb anywhere. I didn't fancy Widdop so we loaded up the beast and made tracks (once I'd jump started the flat battery..). Anyway the Cliff was warm, but there was a reasonable cooling breeze so not horrendous. Spud had a go and Lard dug a hole. Then they had some lunch and I went to attack my nemesis. I started with working all the moves, they all went down first time with the exception of the slap to the lip. But a couple of goes working it and this was in the bag, as it's the crux for me I wasn't surprised that it took a couple of goes to get the timing right. Then I had a bit of a rest and went for the link. The start is pretty easy, but steep so a bit draining on the arms. It went smoothly, very smoothly, I was feeling nice and light when I got to the crux slap. Fling for the slap, boosh hit it. Then a tricky foot movement to get a toe lock with my right which is a bit blind. Then a short sequence of moves that need the foot to stick and uber body tension to leave me holding a hold under the roof with my right and a chipped hold with my left. Feet off and lock-off the left arm and bring the right out to match. Feeling tired I somewhat unconfidently slapped for the high pocket which signals the end of the hard climbing Leaving just the awkward top-out. I hit the edge of the pocket, a quick udge and it's in. I fluff about on the top-out for ages, what a goose. All in all probably fifteen minutes at the problem (plus several previous sessions working the sequence).

And the problem? Keelhaul, happy days.

It would seem there may well be a bit of life left in this blog after all...

I celebrated with a cream tea, very nice it was too, roll on summer.

Honey, I'm home....

I am back from Font. To save you reading pages of my rambling twaddle I'll start by stating that I DID NOT CLIMB 8A.
Anybody still here? No, didn't think so. Oh well here's a slightly deeper analysis of Fontal going-ons.
First off. I want to move to Font. It's amazing. Great pastries, relaxed pace of life and the best bouldering in the world (OK I can't make that statement from a position of knowledge but god is it good). Anyone under the impression that the Peak, or Yorkshire can compete with Font for bouldering is frankly delusional. So that's a new objective, move to Font in the next five years.

Anyway the climbing. I tried lots, most of it was amazing. The weather was pretty good in the sense that we climbed every day but also pretty poor for harder (for me) problems as it was consistently very warm and quite humid, especially in the early mornings when the slightly lower temperatures were ruined by the fairly persistent morning mists. I didn't get to go everywhere I wanted to, on family holidays you never do. But I went to some new places and also visited a few old favourites and a very good time was had.

Specific problems? Well from my master list of 4 we've got:
1) Fata Morgana - didn't get to this one, I felt it was the least likely to fall to my skill-set. Might try a visit next year...
2) Toit de Greau - went to this one morning in the pouring rain, the starting holds were dry but everything else was soaked and conditions were horrible (hot and humid). I pulled on and could reach the next hold with a bit of umph but it was dripping wet. I'll probably head back next year and try it in the dry.
3) Beaux Quartiers - went to this one evening. Again it was crazy hot and humid and we bailed after half an hour when it started raining. Did the first few moves and the last "hard" move and the easy finish. Couldn't get anywhere on the two middle moves but I think on a crisp cold day I could definitely do this.
4) Noir Desir - Got very close on this but the condition of the top slopy pocket coupled with my fluid leaking tips meant no cigar. I think if I get good conditions on this I'll get it in a couple of attempts. Next year.

And other things
Carnage Assis - first 7C in Font so that's nice. Not a classic, would have much prefered Noir Desir but hey-ho.
Coccinelle - I struggled on exactly the same move as Uncle. Neil showed me the numbers but I just couldn't get the heel or toe hooks to stick for the drop with the left hand into the pocket. The rest of this problem is straightforward. Went back on the last day and sorted the move, I use a similar technique to Unc but as I'm shorter my right foot is further left. After a bit of manning up I was sticking the pocket every time, boom. The problem was the next move is a dynamic slap for a pinch which is pretty steady with your right foot on the obvious take-off hold. However in a wide bridging position with your left foot on the take-off hold the trajectory is all screwed so it's much harder to hit the pinch. It's also (at my height) completely blind. I tried swapping my feet but a lack of sufficient body tension/height rendering this a no-no. I managed to hit the pinch and hold it a couple of times but at this point it was last thing last day with a two year old and a wife who were both ready to go. I was battered so left it for next year (are you spotting the theme here?). Again I think this will go down rapidly when I next try it.

Coccinelle failure from nik jennings on Vimeo.

Magic Bus/Barre Fixe - I flashed/onsighted Barre Fixe and did Magic Bus in three goes. They are not problems at earth shattering grades but it was nice to do problems so quickly that last year I would have been ecstatic to even get close to doing after a siege.

Magic Bus from nik jennings on Vimeo.


Barre Fixe from nik jennings on Vimeo.

So in summary 8A didn't happen. Nothing on my list of 4 was crushed. However I am totally happy. I had a great holiday, it was huge amounts of fun. I had my best ever performance in Font. Could I do 8A in Font? Honestly? Yes, I think so. I am confident that in my current condition I can climb Beaux Quartiers, but I need very good conditions coupled with me feeling fresh, an unlikely combination in Font on a two week Easter trip. Next year I will hopefully be a bit stronger, a bit more flexible, a bit wiser and a bit of a better climber so my margin for error will increase and as such my chance of climbing 8A.

This objective has from the outset had a grade based focus, and as such lots of my posting has had a grade focus. However the thing I have really got out of the last 12 months is a renewed enthusiasm for climbing. No matter how much I put in to climbing I always get more out. The grade chasing is inevitable, but more importat is the passion and the pleasure. Most of this blog is the little grade based side story of the much bigger picture.

Will this blog continue? I honestly don't know. The timeframe is over so is there any point? But then was there ever one? Why don't you pop back in a while and see...

And the scales were removed from his eyes...

A week or so since the last blog and what has happened. Well not that much, I've got out climbing a bit but not completed on anything and I've had an indoor session. There has however been one revalation, I may have to eat some humble pie with respect to those with multiple footwear. But more of that later.

Chronological order seems as good an order as any so first off I went back to Hyning earlier this week with sore skin and a painful elbow. I worked a sequence and did every move but the link felt hard. Several of the moves use heel hooks and these felt really tenuous.

Thursday went to Widdop. I wasn't really planning on trying anything as I wanted to rest for Friday but had a couple of falls of the move to the break of Fight on Black. I can do this, and quite easily, I just need to stop falling off. Bit frustrating really.

Friday back to Hyning with G-unit and Lincoln. Back on Transgenic. Again did all the moves in isolation, again didn't feel in great shape and again the heels felt stupidly tenuous. Left feeling that I hadn't really progressed on the problem but I'm still keen for it. It's such a good line (albeit slightly spoiled by the block at the end). Then went to Woodwell to try Not Bad Dave Sit Start and to have an epiphany. I'd tried NBD once before when it was dripping (and I do mean dripping) wet. I'd done all the moves bar one which involves a left heel hook in a vague scallop, right hand on a painfull edgy thing and reach out over the lip to a good flattie for the left. I couldn't do the move in the wet, and I couldn't do the move in the dry. The heel just wouldn't stick. I was wearing my Verdes which are big and pretty baggy but comfy. Mr Lincoln kindly suggested I try his Dragons for the heel hook move. I was unconvinced by the whole scheme as in the (not terribly distant) past I had mocked people with a climbing shoe fetish. My thinking being that footwear was not the limiting factor in my climbing (strength and flexibility are generally). However I humoured him and put on the left boot. What an unbelievable difference that made, the heel stuck solid and the move felt pretty steady. Which, considering how blasted I was feeling and how painful my skin was, was remarkable. So here it is, an unreserved apology. Boots can make a huge difference in certain situations, carry on with impunity you multiple footwear owning Imelda Marcos's. I'm now very keen to get me some Dragons and get back on Transgenic, I think those nice tight skinny Dragon heels will feel solid and secure where my big baggy Verdes felt.... well shit really.

Saturday I felt caned. Went to Shipley with G-unit and families. Quite a nice spot. G dispatched Red Baron in quick order, beast. I did Parker. Then did a traverse thing that was 7B in the guide, but the rules were not especiallly clear (is the footblock in or not?). I used it and did it on my third? attempt. But come on lets be realistic, I'm shot, sore skin, tired body, low energy, last problem of the day. In that situation I don't do 7B in quick order. Luckily Tom Peckitt toddled along, flashed it (using the footblock) and declared it too easy for 7B. And he was right.

Yesterday went to the Peak, I was going to go outside but weather on arrival coupled with non-climbing commitments later on meant that indoors was the only option so we went to the Works. I tried the new board, it revealed that I am weak, nuff said....

Lets get multimedia, boom.

Some more video, me on Pig in a Pokey and me making the (possible?) first ascent of Okey Dokey:

Nik bouldering at Buckstones from GCW on Vimeo.

And a photo of GCW on the Fridge Hugger Project when it was still a project:



My sequence has my right hand where GCW's right is, then I put my left toe on a foothold that can be seen just inside the bend of GCW's left elbow whilst my left hand is on the obvious chalky hold just left of GCW's right hand. Then once my foot is on I slap my left hand out to where GCW's left hand is in the photo, this tends to make your left hip joint feel like it's going to explode. Then move the right hand onto the hold just left of GCW's right hand and press it down to get your right foot up next to the right hand. Then stand up and reach up with the right past all the chalky holds on the two aretes to a reasonable hold just below the flake/ripple/do-dah at the top of the photo. A hideous sequence for the tall, not much better for the short.

Something old, something new...

Yesterday I was working in Huddersfield and it just so happens that with judicious route taking I can drive past Blackstone edge and Buckstones on the way there, and on the way back. Which is nice as both crags have a single piece of unfinished business from last year. I called into Buckstone on the way to Hudds (the walk-in is about 20 seconds) and checked conditions, it was damp in places but drying rapidly in the roaring gale. So I carried on to Hudds with the intention of visiting on the homeward journey.

A few hours later, job done and back to Buckstone. The wind had done a pretty good job, things were perhaps not in primo nick but not bad, not bad at all. Buckstone basically has one block of interest which is an obvious big roof. Last year I climbed a problem out along the right arete of the roof (Pig In A Pokey-7A+) and did a possible new problem along the left arete (Okey Dokey - 7B), I then linked Okey Dokey into Pig in a Pokey Reversed finishing with a right to left traverse under the roof and then up the side wall to give Okey Pokey - 7B+. I also tried the link the other way round (Pig in a Pokey, reverse Okey Dokey, left to right traverse under the roof then finish up the side wall) this however had the better of me last year. The crux move involved a not great right hand and double toe hooks the reaching between your legs to get a poor sidepull all whilst fully inverted under a horizontal roof. Anyway I went back and warmed up by repeating the three problems I'd done so far, then I worked the crux sequence had a rest and went for it. Success, it felt significantly harder than Okey Pokey so I think solid 7C and the name (in keeping with tradition) is Pig in a Dokey.
Anyway if your looking for a roadside venue with a couple of good roof problems and a couple of really rather silly link-ups then Buckstones is the place to be (as long as you can ignore the discarded bottles, graffiti, litter....).
Me on Okey Dokey (from last year)


Nik at Work on the First Ascent of Okey Pokey, Fb7b+, Buckstones from GCW on Vimeo.

Then to Blackstone where there was a "fridge hugger" project from last year. I worked a sequence that I suspect will be impossible for the tall and also managed this. Felt very hard but I was probably a bit tired. Didn't use a single fridge hugging move on the problem but the name has stuck so Fridge Hugger - 7B+ (although it may be harder, or easier)

A good day.

Today there were various plans for the afternoon playdate with G-bob. But in the end the weather dictated Silverdale, which was where I wanted to go to be honest. First venue Trowbarrow and G flung himself with gay abandon at the first move of Vitruvian Man, and his persistence paid off. Whilst he didn't fully stick the move he got about as close as it is possible to get to sticking it without actually sticking it. Good work fella, I think if he keeps his dander up then this will get crushed, beast. I spent my time not really doing anything, nothing dry was grabbing me so I mostly spent my time providing G with an unhelpful commentary....

Anyway we then went to Hyning Wood as I was keen to get on Transgenic. However the start was soaking wet, but looks pretty easy. And the last couple of moves were also gopping, and these don't look so easy. But the middle section was dry(ish, still a bit damp to be honest but pull-on-able) and I was pleased to pretty quickly get a working sequence. I also had a vague play on the last moves, but they were too wet for any meaningful pulling. However I think it's on. A great looking line, just need to get back in the dry.

All in all a nice couple of days and reasonably productive.

Indoors again

Sunday night G came round for a session on the board. It's good to have someone else to climb with on the board as it keeps motivation up. By myself I tend to get a bit bored after 40 minutes or so but with the G there we managed to keep on truckin for almost 2 hours, yee-ha.
Also having someone else devising problems means that I get a bit of variation in style, rather than just getting an enormous tract of problems that are climbed using deep drop-knees. Also, given G's massive reach, there tends to be some dirty long moves, longer than I'd conceive alone.

Anyway it's all good, but I want to get some more outdoor mileage in over the next few weeks before loading up the car. Objectives would be:
- a couple/few ticks in the 7C-8A range
- a 7A+/B flash
- fix the car boot lock
- get a new pair of Verdes and start wearing them in

Also noticed I have the best part of no photos or videos on this blog, which makes for a very boring read for modern man and his miniscule attention span. Moves are afoot to remedy this.

Final BIG news is that I have put a chin up bar in the kitchen at the little ladies request. She is determined to be able to do a chin up before the end of time, good luck to her I say...

Lessons in lank

Went to West View the other evening with G-unit. The session started well but I got weirdly pumped quite early and powered out big time. I'm thinking a bit of stamina work might be no bad thing. I guess this lack of stamina is inevitable as I tend to just try and do the hardest moves I can on the board, and most problems are only three or four moves long. Pretty much pure power stuff. Which is great bcause that's kind of the problems I aspire to do in the immediate future. But if I can only have a couple of goes at a problem before being burled out for the day then success is going to be hard to come by. Hey-ho.

Then today I went to Bridies with G. And, well, I'm trying not to write this, but, well dammit it's true, he lanked everything. I got totally shut down. We tried Jerry's and I couldn't reach the higher pinch, just the lower one that was awful and I couldn't use and blah blah blah. G failed to finish the deed but he got to the last move and looks steady away, he'll get it once he's overcome his usual fear of success. Then we tried Nine, which is reachy and I couldn't do it, G pathed it sideways with cheese. Then we tried something else, it was reachy, I couldn't even climb to the starting holds. G released his inner tiger and scrabbled his way upwards to victory.

Me and Kebs are going to have to have some serious words...

To fail to prepare is to prepare for failure.

It is now just under five weeks until I head South to the land of good coffee, exceptional pastries and climbing glory. Which realistically means I have four weeks of training time and then a week of generally trying not to get injured.

The problem is I'm nowhere near where I wanted to be at this time. I was hoping to be at the point where I'd ticked some more hard (for me) problems and could then spend four weeks just consolidating the burl and picking on specific highlighted weaknesse (this all sounds far more scientific and organised than the reality of what would have happened but hey-ho). Instead I feel like I've hardly climbed anything since the new year. In reality this isn't true, I've done several 7's including a 7C in a few goes which I would never have expected to have done last year. I think the problem is I've set my expectations to high and am disappointed when I fail to crush things that I think I should. It's easy to forget that 7A is hard, lots of people never climb 7A. So if you've recently done one give yourself a pat on the back regardless of what grade you normally climb.

So anyway this expectation has had a very negative effect on my motivation. To be honest this little Font aim (and the various other aims that have gone on as stages in the ultimate aims development) is the first time that I have ever focussed on a grade based goal. I've always previously had aspirations (as we all do) but they have been less well formed and specific. I'm not used to being so targetted in my approach and I have let it take over and remove some of the fun for me. And for me fun is everything for climbing. When I say fun I don't mean the "ooo aren't I happy and smiling so this is great" fun I mean in a broader sense, perhaps satisfaction would be a better word.

So my satisfaction has been reduced, not because I was climbing badly. Far from it, I am on the best form I've had for the last well... several years. But because I felt I was failing to achieve my expectations. I fell into the trap I've been wary of from day one. What a fool.

Anyway I am unlikely to tick any of my BIG 4 problems in Font. I'm still going there with the same list, and I'm still going to try and crush them. However whilst I'm not approaching this in a negative fashion, I am perhaps being more realistic. The ultimate goal was always going to be longer term than this years trip to Font and I think over the last couple of weeks I sort of lost sight of that. Enough of my warbling, the upshot of all of this is that now I am super psyched to climb, I had a good session on the board last night and I'm keen for more.

Bring it on...

St Bees, the patron saint of Cumbria

Went to St Bees today with the G and Bammers. First time for all of us so excitement and psyche was high. Well it was for G and I, Bammers was just a bit fed up of sharing the boot with a bouldering mat for 3 hours....
Anyway we got there, down the slippery slope of dooooooom, G celebrated our safe descent by flinging himself headfirst down a rocky gully, good skill. I went for a more traditional celebration of a sit down and a coffee, I'm proper old skool me. We decided to warm up on Headbanger. First attempt I missed the slappy first move, second attempt I got to the (easy) top-out then turned into a moron who had never climbed before, didn't know what he was doing up here and frankly didn't like it, dropped off, had a word with myself, third go crushed. Gets 7B in the guide, I'd probably go for 7A+ personally. But then G failed to make anything even vaguely ressembling progress and he can crush things, sometimes, honest, I've seen it with my own eyes and everything. To be fair G did seem to struggle with positioning his right foot correctly in a heel-toe-y type situation for the first move. He claims this is because he's tall, but maybe he's just shit? Who's to know.... No, I'm sure it's just he's tall.
Anyway the G wanted to get on Clash of the Titans. I didn't. I thought it looked hard and reachy in photos and video clips, and in the flesh I thought it looked... well even harder and reachier. I vaguely waved my hands at the starting holds before say "no not for me, but you try it as much as you like G, I'll just watch these chaps trying Undercooke, my that's a good looking problem". A couple of moments later we moved on...
Undercooke is ace, took two goes to crush this one but this time G put in his angry eyes and joined the party in a footless sty-leeeeee, go beast. I think this felt very similar to Headbanger so would think 7A+ ish. However it did seem very reachy so a less midget scaled person may find it easier, I think it gets 7A in the guide, but everybody knows that there all written by giant men.
After that we did a 7A prow/arete thing that would have been easy if you didn't have to work so hard keeping your back from dabbing the adjacent block. Then we did Fishermans Dyno (nice), I fell of the top of Hueco Crack Sitter (twice) and we both failed to do an arete.
All in all a nice venue and a nice day. I'd go back, even though it's a long way.

(P.S. St Bees isn't really the patron saint of Cumbria, she's the patron saint of monocles, stoats and sideburns)

Drizzlebarrow

An afternoon at Trowbarrow with G-unit in the drizzle, what fun.
On the way up I stopped off at Hyning Wood to have a gander at Transgenic, it was damp/wet but looks like a cracking line so I'm keen to get on it (add it to the list, which is getting silly long now). Anyway then on to Trowbarrow, G was already there as was Jordan of Buys. Having never met him before he came across as a thoroughly splendid chap. Another brilliant climber who also happens to be a very good egg, I love that about climbing.

Anyway I tried Pit problem as did G. We both failed, G at least managed to look like he was making movement upwards towards the next hold. I on the other hand managed to pull off the ground, not move at all, then fall back to the ground. Wank, wank, wank, I hate this problem. Some people seem to like it but I have to say I think it is a stupid contrived shit problem which climbs really badly. There I've said it. I'm not trying it again.......probably.

Anyway the we moved on to Vitruvian, or rather G did. I've already done it so I had a few goes but lacked that extra psyche that comes from doing something for the first time. Jordan was trying Iron Man, and was using a very different sequence to me. Basically he was going much further left than me, then back right to get into the start of Vitruvian. Whereas I went pretty much straight up into Vitruvian. It was interesting to see this as I had never even considered trying it the way he was. I guess that's the risk of working a problem in a vacuum.

Anyway G was getting closer on the move on Vitruvian, even if he doesn't think so. If he keeps working it I'm sure he'll stick it, just get the muscle engrams programmed and blah blah blah.

Then I tried Ned's Problem,which is awesome. It does the start of Iron Man (which is really nice climbing), then does a really nice sequence to the top holds on Pit Problem (which is really nice climbing) and then does the top bit of Pit Problem (which is the only bit of Pit Problem worth climbing and is really nice climbing). So all in all really nice climbing. Anyway I tried the middle move in isolation, then Jordan flashed it, then I tried it from the start and fluffed the last move, then did it. It was drizzling so the finish rocking onto the slab felt interesting... Anyway it's a really nice problem, highly recommended if your in the area and want a 7B tick. It was nice to do it quickly too, just a couple of goes.

Then it started raining more earnestly and G was getting no further on VM so the tiime had come to move on. A speculative trip to Woodwell found Not Bad Dave SDS to be damp, but we tried it anyway. The first few moves felt pretty steady to me, then there are a couple of hard slappy moves that I didn't stick, then the top which seemed fine (I only had one go at it and missed a slap for a hold but it was quite damp and yadda yadda...). I think in the dry and fresh the couple of middle moves should go down. Just need to heel the heel right up and applique le boeuf, n'est pas? And another one joins the list, and another on joins, and another one joins, and another one joins the list...

Off to St Bee's (probably) on Sunday, so I'll doubtless return with an even longer to-do-list. Toodle-pip old beans.

Back to the coal face.

A combination of illness, visiting friends and Spud and the D-unit falling foul of infection meant that I haven't climbed for two weeks. Certainly the longest non-climbing stint I've had over the last twelve months by a significant margin. There weren't even any sessions on the board and even my (admittedly very minimal and ill researched) stretching regime fell by the wayside. But today was a day of freedom, the family had been boxed up and posted off to the in-laws and I was feeling, well average.
First thing this morning was spent trying to establish where, if anywhere, had escaped the rain, mist and melt water. Enquiries were not yielding te positive responses I so craved, but amongst this there was one beacon of hope. A turd of grit that appears to occupy a climatic bubble. Of course it could only be Almscliff. Now this place takes a lot of stick from lots of people but for me it is a great bouldering crag. If anyone else can name me a crag of similar proportions containing so many great lines at so many grades. It covers the full spectrum from the very easy through to the nigh on impossible. That in itself would be enough to cement it's classic status. But it goes one better than that, it is (and this is purely my opinion and I have on stats to back this up) the grit crag with the most reliable conditions. In fact I would imagine that it is THE most conditions reliable crag in the country with a decent spectrum of problem types and grades. In fact I'm not surprised it's popular, I'm surprised it's not more popular.
Anyhoos enough bigging up the Cliff, and on to the climbing. My Ciff aims list consists of Keelhaul and Jess's Roof. However when I got there they were both wet (typical, I write a rant about the dryness of Almscliff on a day when it's wet), also it was windy so I felt cold and yet it was also quite warm so the friction felt poor. I decided to have a dabble at Streaky's on the Egg block. Bad move. I should have found some shelter, drank my coffee and told the dog a story. Instead I got tired and demotivated trying a damp-ish problem in poor conditions with my mats getting blown every which way. Arse. Anyway then Guru and Sam turned up and conditions started to improve. We headed up to DWR and I got stuck into DWR-LH. Conditions were OK, but not great but I ended up with a workable sequence that I think should go fairly quickly next time (in better conditions), it's a pretty basic sequence and not at all elegant but it works so tra-la-laa. Then I got tired and powered out so left the party to head home for pizza. As I departed I noticed that the Keel block was dry, and well populated with climbers, bum. Oh well, in reality leaping on an 8A project after a two week lay-off and illness probably wouldn't have been desperately productive so not to worry. Hopefully get more done this week, and maybe even tick something. Quite psyched about plans to head over to Wales but we'll see what the weather holds....

Anyway I've decided to unveil the top tier of my Font ticklist. This is basically 4 problems that I'm really up for trying. This list does not discount other problems, it may be that I'll try these, get shut down and move on to others on a more exhaustive list (or, hope of hopes I'll crush the 4 then move on to the 8B list). There is also a lower tier list which is of (generally) easier problems, but which is vast. And I'm not going to be typing that out anytime soon. I've picked th 4 problems which have really grabbed my interest, they may not be the best for me or the classics or soft or hard or whatever. They are just problems that appeal to me for reasons that are numerous and doubtless undefineable. Anyway this is they:
1) Noir Desir (7C) - Rempart
2) Beaux Quartiers (8A) - Bouligny
3) Toit De Greau (8A) - Greau
4) Fata Morgana (8A) - Long Vaux

There's a few things to note. First off, one of them isn't 8A. But I really want to do it, it looks amazing. And anyway even though this whole thing was about doing an 8A it really isn't about that it's about setting an objective which focuses my aims within bouldering. 8A is just a convenient marker, in much the same way as picking a specific problem would be convenient, but ultimately limiting. Anyway this isn't a job, I can move my goalposts will-nilly. These are 4 problems that satisfy the main thrust of my objective. In that they are steep (so not something I would previously have tried, let alone succeeded on) they are in Font (which is important) and they are harder than I have climbed in Font in recent years.
Am I setting myself up for a fall by naming these problems? No, I don't think so. I'm just letting the two or three people who read this know which problems are top of hit list. Should I fail to manage any of them I'm not going to die of shame or lose sponsirship or have my child taken off me by social services. I'll just come home and get back to work.
There's always next year....