Plans, Schemes, Objectives...

There were plans in place for this week. A list (albeit quite short) of things to be done. There were a couple of targets, silly little milestones to be reached. Or not. A combination of factors (limited time, the weather, my abilities) have conspired to make it unlikely that said targets will be realised. The targets will be realised ultimately, of that I'm sure, but the self-imposed time limit on the scheme will almost certainly not be met.
Hopefully my next posting will be a positive report...

Significant Moments.

Significant moments occur in all our lives. If we're lucky we realise that such a moment is coming, we prepare, anticipate, plan beforehand and then act in the "best" way we can. Other times the moment passes and hindsight allows us only a view of the moments significance, but no ability to change the course. Both of these situations will happen numerous times in anybody's life.

But then sometimes you catch the moment, you don't see it approach but it's there in front of you. Quick decisive action is required, there is seldom a right or wrong answer just different outcomes for different choices.

This morning was grey and damp. I choose to stay at home and work rather than hunt for dry rock with G. As lunchtime approaches the weather is improving but still overcast so nice and cool. I choose to forgo lunch and head out for a lunch-break session on the rock. I choose to not go bouldering, the obvious choice, but instead go to look at a local trad route. I get there and all is dry, there's a good breeze and the rock feels nice and cool. I had planned to put a rope on the line and work it, it is that kind of a route. But there is small amount of chalk on the first two holds, I follow the line up with my eyes, but the chalk goes no further. But those few specks of chalk are suggestive, a choice now needs to be made. Mentally flip the coin and then start to put my boots on. Tie on the chalk bag, fill it up, chalk the hands then set off. Up a few moves. I'm at a positive sidepull, my feet are good. I could jump off from here, it might be a bit sore but I could walk home with the dog and make some lunch. I look up, the holds are there, can see them, I can see the sequence. Half a dozen moves or jump off. Questions, will my fingers fit in the mono's? Will that foot stick? Will I reach the next hold? I look back down, maybe 15 seconds have passed, eyes back up. Go through the sequence in my head, it will work, a few more seconds, breathe chalk tenuous move to undercut,feet up, mono, mono, mono, crimp, it feels sandy, brush hand on jeans, chalk, crimp, better, compose, breathe, feet up, stand up reach, good hold, no it's not that good, feet up, compose, breathe, reach, big hold, head on rock, deep breaths. Relax, pull to top, sit down. And then the dog starts crying.

Oh yeah, went to Kilnsey on Friday and made decent progress on a project, back there tomorrow for more.

Fuck Fuck Fuck

Fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuck fuckity fuck.

The promising start to the sport season is looking to be short lived. Right hand middle finger has developed pain, quite a lot of pain. Oh well, heading to Kilnsey tomorrow, lets see how the finger holds up...

Tis The Season To Clip Up.

Back from Font with a goal ticked it's time to move on to the summer objectives. These being somewhat unchanged from last years brief forays into the wacky world of sport climbing. So a sport 8 is required to complete the triumvirate. To add a bit of spice and impetus to proceedings I have foolishly set the goal of ticking a sport 8 this month (i.e. by the end of next week!). Meaning that both a Font 8 and a sport 8 will be ticked in a single month. These silly goals and aspirations are nice little waypoints that I can (fail to?) reach as I head towards an ultimate goal.
Anyway the sport started with a trip out with the Guru. A revisit of a couple of new route projects started last year. One is in the 8a+/b ballpark and the other is likely to yield no change from 8b+, so neither is particularly suited to a quick "tick this month" ascent for a man of my meagre means. Anyway I feel as though good progress has been made with a couple of nice links starting to emerge. There are these two projects and one other project line (about 8b) to finish off from last year and to get one of them would be great. I won't say I'm confident, but to get some links going so early in the season is at least encouraging.
Then today I visited Malham again with the Guru. The aim was Raindogs. I had three top-ropes of the line. The first one I struggled with one move but did all the other moves in a go or two. Second time up I got a sequence for the tough move, but got footwork messed up so no significant links and found another move tricky. Third go I linked from the ground to the first tricky move, then worked out a better sequence for that move, then went up to the top(ish) in three or four sections. For some reason I was really struggling to remember my foot sequences, and remembering sequences is usually a pretty strong part of my game. Oh well, at the time I felt a bit disappointed with my performance but with retrospect I've realised I haven't even had a go with a properly worked sequence yet so I think a bit more refinement (and a bit more fitness) and it will go.
The Guru seemed to hit a sequence pretty quickly and after two top-ropes working it he cleanly top-roped twice. He's got it in the bag. Especially as it was in the blazing sun and warm and sweaty. A bit of shade and cool and it will feel easier (for both of us I hope).
So I'm still really enjoying the sport climbing and I'm confident an 8 will go down this season and I'm hopeful for something a bit more than 8a. Bring on the b :O)

Friday 9th April

Last day. We called in to Bouligny so I could try Beaux Quartiers which I floundered on horribly. Conditions were less than ideal, I was very tired and my left knee was bleurgh so I couldn't pull on the left heel hook for the first move. Not impressive. I still think I can do this, but maybe not after a week or so of climbing...
Then we went to Cuisinierre. I've never been here before apart from one 5 minute look at Duel. It was really nice. PAIN was high though and SYKE was low so I promised myself I'd only try steep 7A/+ type stuff with big holds. To that end I went for Beetlejuice which went down second go and Le Mouton à 6 Pattes which also went down second go (and got a full team tick) but involved a left heel hook which totalled my left knee, arse.
Then we went to Apremont for a coffee. Most team memebers went home at this point but G-lah wanted to further torture his family by making them walk to Medallie En Chocolat. I went along to watch the fun. It was sizzling in the blazing afternoon sun and G-bob was a tired fat lankster so CRUSH mode was not engaged.
I should also mention that G got up at 6:00 in the morning and raced out to Sabot for a pre-brekkie CRUSh of Jet Set, now that is showing those Frenchies how to climb, go beast.
Anyway had a great trip with some very pleasing ticks, including the elusive 8. Things tailed off towards the end but that's hardly surprising. The big disappointment is the complete lack of video footage this year. Next year I'm going to video/photograph everything, when you get to my age you need footage as a memory aid.
Oh finally I forgot to mention that after my wife had met Dob-lah she expressed the opinion that he reminded her very much of an excitable puppy. An accurate description I feel.
Now to start on next years to-do list...

Thursday 8th April

It was raining this morning so we went for a group coffee in Milly where we met Baz, Jay and the SYKE-o-saurus. The team wanted to head to Sabot once the rain cleared but I persuaded Rick that a quick detour to look at Fata Morgana was in order. I literally just wanted to look at it as I was battered and it was a humid hot day and it had just stopped raining. Anyway we walked up to it and it looked very appealing so I thought I'd stick my boots on and have a quick throw for the pocket. The starting holds were grimness feeling very damp but even so my first attempt was just below the pocket. I had two more goes and was ticklling the hold, excellent. Then Rick boosted me up to the pocket and I tried the top which was steady away. This is now game on top of the list for next year, just need to persuade other people they want to go to Long Vaux.
Then on to Sabot where I talked shite with numerous luminaries of the Brit scene and climbed not a jot. Another day with no 7 tick, tragedy. Although it doesn't feel bad as the Fata knowledge was gleaned for implementation next year.

Wednesday 7th April

Ate a lot of pastries but didn't do anything else really. Went to Potala which was a nice spot then in the evening fell from the top of Attention Chef D'ouvre at Buthiers with very sore skin and low SYKE. As the trip nears it's end I am feeling increasingly weary and sore. Not an impressive day at all. No 7's shocker!!

Tuesday 6th April

G-dawg and famile went to have their wallets emptied at EuroHowfuckinmuch??? The rest of the team had a day trip to Beauvais. There was a lot of jaded-ness and SYKE was running low. Tried L'epee De Sable, did the moves but was in no state to link it,feeling rather battered truth be told. Did a couple of 7B's which are a pair of variations on a white (number 7 maybe?). They were a bit rubbish to be honest.
Not a classic.

Monday 5th April

The morning was spent at Cuvier as I needed to drop the trouble and strife off at Melun train station at lunchtime. G-lah and Mike were keen for Carnage, for about 5 minutes then they stumbled off muttering. Meestah Rick fancied a blast on Berezina, so I did too. It didn't go well.
Rick toddled off somewhere so I consoled myself with a 'flash' of Carnage having done the sitter last year. Then off to the train station.
In the afternoon the ladies climbed at Sablons. Then after dinner the menfolk headed back to Buthiers. Mike and G-pony went back to flounce at Magic Bus and Mestah Rick and I tried Mongolito which was wet, so we tried Dark Room which was wet (and felt a bit tough for 7A+) and finally we ended up at Coccinelle where I went for a repeat for the camera but dropped it at end. Was a bit academic anyway as the camera battery died mid-attempt.

Sunday 4th April

Went to Apremont. Was a bit rainy. Did Egoiste, Mike flashed it after a tactical hang back and watch approach. Failed to do somthing else (Envi D'oile???), then it rained. We might have gone somewhere else, I can't remember.
In the evening I skipped the start of group dinner and dashed to Buthiers in the hop that Coccinelle was dry. It wasn't but it was dry enough and after sliding off on my first attempt it was in the bag go two. Managed to get back to Maisonbleau before the others had finished theirmain course.

Saturday 3rd April

This morning we had various bits and pieces to do as we were moving from the hotel to Maisonbleau. Inbetween sorting this out we visited Buthiers where I briefly tried Coccinelle. This is a hangover from last year and I was keen to get it CRUSHED. Th trouble was a couple of the holds near the start (which is also the crux) were very damp and the finishing holds were pretty much wet. I managed to do all the moves in isolation pretty much straight off but linking it was not going to happen until it was a bit drier.
Anyway we got checked in to Maisonbleau (very nice) and started getting food ready for the troops arrival. The weather deteriorated so the plan to meet everyone at Buthiers was shelved and instead we met up at the gite. However once all had gathered it had cleared again and the boys were keen for a blast on Magic Bus so we jetted off down to Buthiers for a quick play. I did this problem last year but all of the other members of the boys team were keen for it this year. I did a demonstration showboat ascent,look at me, then got shut down by the left hand variant. The same grade? O'RLY?? Rick did it in pretty short order, half a dozen goes or so, look at him. Mike and G-lah made progress but it wasn't to be, either on this day or subsequently in the holiday. They can both crush it though, next year (or in the Autumn)...
I then jetted off to make pizza for 5 million hungry travellers.

Friday 2nd April

Another grey day greated us as we rose from a pleasant nights sleep in the Ibis. We trudged through a damp Font to get some pastries and then formulated a plan, and that plan was to go for a coffee and see what happens. Thinking was that Canche would be a good bet as it's quick drying, short walk-in, child friendly and the Boss likes it. As she had to head back to the drudge of real life on Monday it was only fair that she got venue choice for the first few days. There wasn't much I fancied doing there but I figured a few warm up problems to get the SYKE rising for the arrival of team CRUSH tomorrow. Anyway after a slow coffee in Milly things looked a bit perkier so we headed to Canche. On arrival things were soggy but drying and there was a decent breeze. Boss decided it was all to damp for her to climb for the next half hour or so, giving me a window of clamber. The hunt for dry rock didn't go especially well with the only thing dry(ish) being La Puce, hardly a warm up. So I tried to do La Marche the 7A to the right of La Puce. It was dripping wet but has pretty positive holds so I figured it might be possible. I surprised myself by doing it first attempt and it felt pretty easy despite the running water. Maybe thing weren't as bad as yesterdays performance suggested. Anyway then I did the last moves of La Puce. A pretty easy mantle but not something you'd want to mess up if you did latch the dyno move. And then a few throws at the dyno with a few different foothold configurations. I got the feet positions I was happiest with the Mrs Keeg decidied the time had come for her to get BEASTY with it. After she'd done a few problems it started to shower so we messed around for a bit, then as things dried I'd try La Puce then she'd do a bit, then another shower, repeat a couple of times and bang I hit the hold but don't quite hit it so swing off. Next go I hit it and hold it, stick the high foot on the damp hold and mantle to glory. Very happy.
Then it's the bosses turn again, she gets ready and the heavens open with the mother of all hailstorms. Yowzers, we cower under rocks then bail back to Font for a Chinese, livin' the dream.
Font 8A on the first full day, when conditions are variable to say the least. Not expecting that.
Buthiers tomorrow and the arrival of team BURL.

Thursday 1st April

We stopped off on the way down to Font at a Formule 1/"grim prison block of misery and doom" nears Lens so the morning was spent completing the drive down to Font and checking in to the hotel. T'was a little showery on arrival but the afternoon looked promising so we headed out to Sabot. I messed around with Lard while her ladyship had a clamber. Whilst wandering amongst the boulders I happened across Andy Jennings and lady, I meet this guy every year in Font. Then Doblah and the delightful Doblah-ess appeared. A spanking at the hands of the Dob was too tempting so boots were donned and CRUSH mode was definitely not engaged. An inauspicious start to the "lets show those Frenchies how to climb 2010" trip. Luckily the day was saved by a pizza at Chez Guy, that man's a loon.

Bleau Job

Shit a brisk is it really five weeks since I last wrote anything? Oh well pre Font preparations continued a pace until the week before Font when it all went a bit pear-esque. I hurt my left knee and my back and was busy at work and ended up heading off feeling a bit stressed and hassled and not confident of CRUSH. Anyway my E key is only working intermittently right now so I won't go into a warts and all epic (although that may follow at some point in the future) instead I'll simply give you the ticklist (with grades cos I'm an egomaniac loon). The more observant of you will notice an 8A (or two if you believe everything you read in guidebooks) was ticked, yay.
Anyway here's the 7 & 8 list:
La Grande Petit Marche* (7A+)
Saut De Puce (8A)
Magic Bus* (7B+)
Egoiste (7A/6C+)
Coccinelle (8A)
Carnage* (7B+)
Le Sectaire (7B)
Je Broie Du Noir (7B)
Beetle Juice (7A+)
Le Mouton A 6 Pattes (7A)

*repeats, have done them on previous year(s), or in the case of Carnage I did the sitter last year.

I may have missed something out as it is from memory and the grades are just lifted out of the guidebook, I have an opinion which may or may not vary from this. Definitely my best Font performance by a lonnnnnnnng way. So happy days. But this E button is cocking me off now so further musings will have to wait...