No blogging for a couple of weeks, hmmm, this doesn't bode well. Hey-ho.
Since the Sheffield weekend I have been mostly working. Which is great as it pays the bills and all that (not that I've been paid yet) but it does eat into the free-time somewhat. Most disapointing...
Anyway I've had a couple os sessions on the home wall but my left hand is really feeling the pace right now, it's frustrating because on the one hand I want to keep trying things but realistically what it needs is rest, grrrr. Also had another night-time session with the uber torch. This time I went to Earl with G. The learning points from this session number two:
1) Earl is a deathtrap of ankle snapping holes and boulders in the dark and not an ideal venue for night-time bouldering in my opinion.
2) Earl is a crag that my body just doesn't get. I imagine this isn't a phenomenon that is unique to me but some problems/boulders/crags and me just don't get on. It's not as simple as the style of the problem or conditions, it's a deeper antipathy. Another example would be the trackside boulder at Curbar, I hate it and it hates me. I don't know why we just don't see eye to eye. The trouble with situations like this is that you don't know that thats the case until you've invested the time and effort in getting consistently spanked. Anyway suffice it to say that Earl is on my shit list.
Moving on yesterday I went back to Stanage, I was keen to get back on Jerrys Traverse but first we called into the Buckstone so G could lank his way up the dyno. I had a quick go and surprised myself by getting pretty close, and next go got my fingers over the hold. Ooooo, this was interesting. I then predictably spent the next 20 minutes getting tp pretty much exactly the same place. G spent this time climbing like an arse, making some of the least convincing dyno attempts I have ever seen, fucking amateur. I would apologise to G for the previous sentence, but he knows it's true. So as a break we did the groove round the back of the buckstone. I then got engrossed in trying it no-handed. I love getting sucked into stupid pointless stuff like this. Some people are very stuffy about messing about all "that's not proper climbing" and "it's just silly". HELLO, wake up and smell the coffee, it's not like climbing is the most point laden activity in to world. Fools. Anyway it took a bit of working out but a footless sequence was dispatched, hurrah! Back to failing on the dyno. For this series of attempts G upped his game and started failing much nearer the finishing hold,good work fella. Eventually got bored off losing skin on it so gave up. I'm confident that both G and I can do this.
Then onto the Plantation where three things rapidly became apparent:
1) Conditions were far worse than we imagined
2) I had no skin on my right hand fingertips
3)Deliverance was the place to be
Jerry's felt awful and my hand very painful so I tried a few of the moves then pretty much binned it straight off. Then went to try Green Traverse, which is a problem I've never done. Fell of the last move on my first attempt, stupidly I assumed it would be easy after the crimpy bit so didn't look at any of the holds which meant I was just papping about at the end and fell off. Greased off the crimps second go then did it. Felt hard to me, but it was greasy (got to love these excuses). G stuck to his guns and consistently fell off before the end of the problem, such dedication to failure is rare indeed. Next time he'll crush it no doubt. Tried a couple of other things but not worth writing about.
Now the sun is shining and I'm sat here with skinless fingers watching the snooker, but about to change over to the F1. Is there a lesson to be learnt here about flogging yourself in poor conditions, patience and wisdom? Probably, but I can't be arsed to work it out....
South Snowdonia Bouldering Videos
5 months ago
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