Sunday 26 April 2009

Taking little Fairy Steps...

Went to Fairy Steps today with the family. Met up with G-unit on arrival and he looked glum.

What's the crack daddy-o?

Turns out he's nicky-nacky-nooed his A2 pulley whilst unleashing the uber-crimp. I, ignoring the fact that he is actually quite knowledgable in all things musculo-skeletal 'an all dat, think he's being a girl and should really put his man pants back on.

Anyway we venture cragwards. G ain't climbin nuttin' sucka and her ladyship is wearied by the epic trek in so sits down for lunch with lard. I make an opening gambit by trying Axiom (I think it's called Axiom, the thing to the right of Walk Away anyway), classic warm-up material. Errr, no. It's extra large headed clout nails hard, not helped by the fact that I can't reach any holds. Then I realise that whilst I can't reach the high starting hold I can reach a HUUUUGE pinch out right (which is totally not in for the problem) and easily attain the break. Ergo the line is eliminate and morpho, next...
So then I try the crack left of Walk Away, V4? Ooooof, several goes in I contrive a woefull sequence to the break then refuse the top-out. A few vague attempts at the sitter which largely revolve around sitting and grunting and I'm feeling nicely demoralised. So why not try Walk Away? I'll tell you why not, it's hard. I mean properly hard. Anyway I pull off the ground, then step back onto the ground, shake my head, look at the sitter, shake head some more then Spud does some climbing. She doesn't fare much better and we head carwards feeling dejected and humiliated.

In a last gasp attempt to save face we call in on Aeon. I try the moves and pretty quickly get a sequence together. The hard bit seems to be positioning your feet for one move, rather than any of the actual moves, which is a bit wierd but hey-ho. So then as a break I do the dyno, should have flashed it but put no effort into the move to the top, did it second go. G gets it on videocordergram, and also shows me the footage of his pulley pop, the noise is loud and wince inducing and I start to realise he probably has fooked it, bad pennies G. Get well soon. Anyway back to Aeon, now I'm trying it without using the undercut which is apparently the 8A way. But I'm struggling with this foot movement bit so then I try it using the undercut (which is apparently 7C) and a bit of sequence adjustment and I've done all the moves for the easier way. But I'm not mega syked for it that way, I don't want it this way I want to follow the true path of the JG. But I give it a (completely pathetic) attempt anyway. Scuppered by pretty much the worst power fade I've ever had, criminal. Anyway skin inspection whilst driving home revealed that my tips are well and truly mullered, two weeks in Font, a week working with cement and a day on grit in warm conditions before hitting the lime had done for my skin. I think on a decent day with decent skin and no power fade Aeon should go down without too much of a fight, and no cheaty undercuts for me siree, no it's the way of the JG true believers..

Had another cream tea on the way home, this shits addictive.

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