Went to Silverdale with G-unit yestermorn. Conditions were poor but we were worse. Not a good session nuff said.
Then G met Tanman at Denham where the bronzed adonis was keen to get Snatch done. He's been close previously so was hopeful that it would go down this session. Sadly on a "feeling good" go he pulled off a left hand crimp. Aaaargh.
When I heard of these events last night I was in part saddened that this problem had been so short lived, partially confident that a new sequence would be workable and a little bit confused about which hold had snapped. The more I considered this breakage the more convinced I was that the hold I used for my left couldn't snap off, well it could but it's a wierd scallopy thing rather than a thin crimp so unlikely to snap. At last curiousity got the better of me and with the aid of an extended lunch hour I quested off to Denham. As I arrived I could clearly see the problem was well chalked and....
My left hand hold was still on the wall, yay! It would seem Tanman had been using a slightly higher crimp for his left hand to set up for the move to the jug, a hold that I didn't use. So whilst the rockface isn't in the same condition as for the first ascent the sequence of handholds is. In fact Bronze-a-saurus did me a favour by snapping off the higher hold he has prevented cheaty easy sequences being utilised :o)
Anyway I'm happy that the problem still stands and maybe a repeat will happen, get to it Tanners...
South Snowdonia Bouldering Videos
5 months ago
4 comments:
I believe the phrase you were looking for was 'well chalked' and ticked up ;-) So, time to re-fine my sequence using the hold i really didn't want to use. I had felt it but dismissed it :-( I might have to actually try this top bit on a rope to work it out, and sack off the ground up approach.
Good effort ground upping - I thought you'd been on it on a rope. That's well impressive if you haven't, nice one.
Get on a rope and work that last move then ice it like Pappa smurf.
There were one or two tick marks here and there ;o)...
And a surprising amount of dead hedgehogs which is weird.
I ab it and clean it every time i go but never tried the moves. All been ground up.
The hedgehogs, me and G guess, fell off the top shagging. They were both under snatch dead.
Whilst I hate to disagree with Herr Beard, I'd still suggest it should be done ground up- the fall can be padded well, and the fall is OK. I suppose if you're very short you fall further on the last move.
I reckon yon hogs of the hedge were having a crack at Snatch and came short of the required level. Crag pizza as they say.
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