I don't think I've got breaking news here when I say it's been a bit on the rainy side of late. However yesterday morning the Guru and I were engaged in an interweb debate about whether to venture out. I think we were both keen, but also neither of us wanted to drag the other out for a washout day, this was compounded by the fact that we were both carrying (very minor) injuries.
Anyhoo, after a bit of too-ing and fro-ing a Kilnsey based plan was hatched. I was not overly confident given recent cragside reports but the Guru assured me "Comedy never gets wet". He also advised me to bring wellies, good knowledge the stream was like a grade 5 white water rapid (or something...), the dog was almost lost in the crossing.
Anyway up the hill slightly late as usual to meet the reliably on time Guru who is grim of face. Everything is wet, even Comedy. There is a slight ray of hope though, the 7a+ at the left end of the crag is dry, as is Metal Mickey and Metal Guru. So we "warm up" on the 7a+, the Guru eases his way up, climbing smoothly, considering his moves, pausing for efficient rest and making steady relentless progress, he fairly effortlessly makes the lower-off. He even has the courtesy to pretrend that he found it tricky whilst I lower him. My turn. I'm a bit cold, can't feel my hands, overgrip everything and essentially bolt to bolt it before lowering off below the top too demotivated to make the last push up the easy finish. I don't think I've quite got this sport climbing warm-up thing down pat just yet... Kindly to the end the Guru claims that he wants to top-rope it again as a warm down so it's actually a good thing that I lowered off... Too kind sir, too kind.
Anyway on to Metal Mickey which we have both tried briefly before. This time conditions felt good and pretty soon we both had what we feel are workable sequences. But we also had very sore skin and no time, so a quick gear removal, pack up and we were off.
I think Metal Mickey is just about the perfect route for me. It is very bouldery, essentially it is two boulder problems on top of one another, but it is not so short as to feel like you're just putting on a rope to get a route tick rather than a bouldering tick. I.e. it is a proper route. Also it appears to stay pretty dry come what may, and that can only be a good thing given the current situation...
So I set out at the start of the Lime season wanting to do an 8a, and I haven't (failed again, spotting a pattern?). However I think I probably could have done an 8a I just didn't devote much time to the ones I tried, I guess they failed to inspire, and routes I have spent time on are a notch or two tougher. Right now I'd happily forgo a relatively quick tick of an 8a (assuming I could get one) for a more prolonged effort on the two routes that have grabbed me. They being Metal Mickey and Grooved Arete. Of these two I'm pretty much certain that the higher grade route (Metal Mickey, 8b) will be the eaier to complete as it suits me and I'm motivated to do it. I am equally motivated to do Grooved Arete but I feel that this will be harder for me (featuring as it does the ever elusive endurance) even though it gets 8a+. As ever grades are just a guide, climb what motivates and inspires.
Finaly I apologise for recent posts, they have been long, wordy and seriously lacking in the multi-media department. I shall endevour to rectify the multi-media aspect. The wordiness is because I want to explain a bit more beyond simply where I went and what I did, I've got a log book for that, but try to explain a bit of the why also. If it's boring don't read it (does anybody anyway) or post a comment telling me to shut up.
Right I'm off to concoct a negotiating strategy that will give me a pass out over the weekend, I may be some time...
South Snowdonia Bouldering Videos
5 months ago
3 comments:
shut up.
Change your blog name to "Essays on an objective".
Stay in washing up and babysitting every night till next Friday. Then go big, at the Depot.
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