Wednesday, 14 April 2010

Friday 2nd April

Another grey day greated us as we rose from a pleasant nights sleep in the Ibis. We trudged through a damp Font to get some pastries and then formulated a plan, and that plan was to go for a coffee and see what happens. Thinking was that Canche would be a good bet as it's quick drying, short walk-in, child friendly and the Boss likes it. As she had to head back to the drudge of real life on Monday it was only fair that she got venue choice for the first few days. There wasn't much I fancied doing there but I figured a few warm up problems to get the SYKE rising for the arrival of team CRUSH tomorrow. Anyway after a slow coffee in Milly things looked a bit perkier so we headed to Canche. On arrival things were soggy but drying and there was a decent breeze. Boss decided it was all to damp for her to climb for the next half hour or so, giving me a window of clamber. The hunt for dry rock didn't go especially well with the only thing dry(ish) being La Puce, hardly a warm up. So I tried to do La Marche the 7A to the right of La Puce. It was dripping wet but has pretty positive holds so I figured it might be possible. I surprised myself by doing it first attempt and it felt pretty easy despite the running water. Maybe thing weren't as bad as yesterdays performance suggested. Anyway then I did the last moves of La Puce. A pretty easy mantle but not something you'd want to mess up if you did latch the dyno move. And then a few throws at the dyno with a few different foothold configurations. I got the feet positions I was happiest with the Mrs Keeg decidied the time had come for her to get BEASTY with it. After she'd done a few problems it started to shower so we messed around for a bit, then as things dried I'd try La Puce then she'd do a bit, then another shower, repeat a couple of times and bang I hit the hold but don't quite hit it so swing off. Next go I hit it and hold it, stick the high foot on the damp hold and mantle to glory. Very happy.
Then it's the bosses turn again, she gets ready and the heavens open with the mother of all hailstorms. Yowzers, we cower under rocks then bail back to Font for a Chinese, livin' the dream.
Font 8A on the first full day, when conditions are variable to say the least. Not expecting that.
Buthiers tomorrow and the arrival of team BURL.

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