And the scales were removed from his eyes...

A week or so since the last blog and what has happened. Well not that much, I've got out climbing a bit but not completed on anything and I've had an indoor session. There has however been one revalation, I may have to eat some humble pie with respect to those with multiple footwear. But more of that later.

Chronological order seems as good an order as any so first off I went back to Hyning earlier this week with sore skin and a painful elbow. I worked a sequence and did every move but the link felt hard. Several of the moves use heel hooks and these felt really tenuous.

Thursday went to Widdop. I wasn't really planning on trying anything as I wanted to rest for Friday but had a couple of falls of the move to the break of Fight on Black. I can do this, and quite easily, I just need to stop falling off. Bit frustrating really.

Friday back to Hyning with G-unit and Lincoln. Back on Transgenic. Again did all the moves in isolation, again didn't feel in great shape and again the heels felt stupidly tenuous. Left feeling that I hadn't really progressed on the problem but I'm still keen for it. It's such a good line (albeit slightly spoiled by the block at the end). Then went to Woodwell to try Not Bad Dave Sit Start and to have an epiphany. I'd tried NBD once before when it was dripping (and I do mean dripping) wet. I'd done all the moves bar one which involves a left heel hook in a vague scallop, right hand on a painfull edgy thing and reach out over the lip to a good flattie for the left. I couldn't do the move in the wet, and I couldn't do the move in the dry. The heel just wouldn't stick. I was wearing my Verdes which are big and pretty baggy but comfy. Mr Lincoln kindly suggested I try his Dragons for the heel hook move. I was unconvinced by the whole scheme as in the (not terribly distant) past I had mocked people with a climbing shoe fetish. My thinking being that footwear was not the limiting factor in my climbing (strength and flexibility are generally). However I humoured him and put on the left boot. What an unbelievable difference that made, the heel stuck solid and the move felt pretty steady. Which, considering how blasted I was feeling and how painful my skin was, was remarkable. So here it is, an unreserved apology. Boots can make a huge difference in certain situations, carry on with impunity you multiple footwear owning Imelda Marcos's. I'm now very keen to get me some Dragons and get back on Transgenic, I think those nice tight skinny Dragon heels will feel solid and secure where my big baggy Verdes felt.... well shit really.

Saturday I felt caned. Went to Shipley with G-unit and families. Quite a nice spot. G dispatched Red Baron in quick order, beast. I did Parker. Then did a traverse thing that was 7B in the guide, but the rules were not especiallly clear (is the footblock in or not?). I used it and did it on my third? attempt. But come on lets be realistic, I'm shot, sore skin, tired body, low energy, last problem of the day. In that situation I don't do 7B in quick order. Luckily Tom Peckitt toddled along, flashed it (using the footblock) and declared it too easy for 7B. And he was right.

Yesterday went to the Peak, I was going to go outside but weather on arrival coupled with non-climbing commitments later on meant that indoors was the only option so we went to the Works. I tried the new board, it revealed that I am weak, nuff said....