Something old, something new...

Yesterday I was working in Huddersfield and it just so happens that with judicious route taking I can drive past Blackstone edge and Buckstones on the way there, and on the way back. Which is nice as both crags have a single piece of unfinished business from last year. I called into Buckstone on the way to Hudds (the walk-in is about 20 seconds) and checked conditions, it was damp in places but drying rapidly in the roaring gale. So I carried on to Hudds with the intention of visiting on the homeward journey.

A few hours later, job done and back to Buckstone. The wind had done a pretty good job, things were perhaps not in primo nick but not bad, not bad at all. Buckstone basically has one block of interest which is an obvious big roof. Last year I climbed a problem out along the right arete of the roof (Pig In A Pokey-7A+) and did a possible new problem along the left arete (Okey Dokey - 7B), I then linked Okey Dokey into Pig in a Pokey Reversed finishing with a right to left traverse under the roof and then up the side wall to give Okey Pokey - 7B+. I also tried the link the other way round (Pig in a Pokey, reverse Okey Dokey, left to right traverse under the roof then finish up the side wall) this however had the better of me last year. The crux move involved a not great right hand and double toe hooks the reaching between your legs to get a poor sidepull all whilst fully inverted under a horizontal roof. Anyway I went back and warmed up by repeating the three problems I'd done so far, then I worked the crux sequence had a rest and went for it. Success, it felt significantly harder than Okey Pokey so I think solid 7C and the name (in keeping with tradition) is Pig in a Dokey.
Anyway if your looking for a roadside venue with a couple of good roof problems and a couple of really rather silly link-ups then Buckstones is the place to be (as long as you can ignore the discarded bottles, graffiti, litter....).
Me on Okey Dokey (from last year)


Nik at Work on the First Ascent of Okey Pokey, Fb7b+, Buckstones from GCW on Vimeo.

Then to Blackstone where there was a "fridge hugger" project from last year. I worked a sequence that I suspect will be impossible for the tall and also managed this. Felt very hard but I was probably a bit tired. Didn't use a single fridge hugging move on the problem but the name has stuck so Fridge Hugger - 7B+ (although it may be harder, or easier)

A good day.

Today there were various plans for the afternoon playdate with G-bob. But in the end the weather dictated Silverdale, which was where I wanted to go to be honest. First venue Trowbarrow and G flung himself with gay abandon at the first move of Vitruvian Man, and his persistence paid off. Whilst he didn't fully stick the move he got about as close as it is possible to get to sticking it without actually sticking it. Good work fella, I think if he keeps his dander up then this will get crushed, beast. I spent my time not really doing anything, nothing dry was grabbing me so I mostly spent my time providing G with an unhelpful commentary....

Anyway we then went to Hyning Wood as I was keen to get on Transgenic. However the start was soaking wet, but looks pretty easy. And the last couple of moves were also gopping, and these don't look so easy. But the middle section was dry(ish, still a bit damp to be honest but pull-on-able) and I was pleased to pretty quickly get a working sequence. I also had a vague play on the last moves, but they were too wet for any meaningful pulling. However I think it's on. A great looking line, just need to get back in the dry.

All in all a nice couple of days and reasonably productive.