The grit season is over, temps have risen and the lime has been called. With the car thermometer showing high-teens temperatures I though I'd celebrate not touching grit until the cooling grasp of Autumn blesses this land by trundling off to...
Almscliff!!
Hey-ho. I only had one thing I wanted to do there and it isn't especially conditionsey so thought I 'd give it a whirl. Spud wanted to head either there or Widdop and Lard was keen to climb anywhere. I didn't fancy Widdop so we loaded up the beast and made tracks (once I'd jump started the flat battery..). Anyway the Cliff was warm, but there was a reasonable cooling breeze so not horrendous. Spud had a go and Lard dug a hole. Then they had some lunch and I went to attack my nemesis. I started with working all the moves, they all went down first time with the exception of the slap to the lip. But a couple of goes working it and this was in the bag, as it's the crux for me I wasn't surprised that it took a couple of goes to get the timing right. Then I had a bit of a rest and went for the link. The start is pretty easy, but steep so a bit draining on the arms. It went smoothly, very smoothly, I was feeling nice and light when I got to the crux slap. Fling for the slap, boosh hit it. Then a tricky foot movement to get a toe lock with my right which is a bit blind. Then a short sequence of moves that need the foot to stick and uber body tension to leave me holding a hold under the roof with my right and a chipped hold with my left. Feet off and lock-off the left arm and bring the right out to match. Feeling tired I somewhat unconfidently slapped for the high pocket which signals the end of the hard climbing Leaving just the awkward top-out. I hit the edge of the pocket, a quick udge and it's in. I fluff about on the top-out for ages, what a goose. All in all probably fifteen minutes at the problem (plus several previous sessions working the sequence).
And the problem? Keelhaul, happy days.
It would seem there may well be a bit of life left in this blog after all...
I celebrated with a cream tea, very nice it was too, roll on summer.
South Snowdonia Bouldering Videos
5 months ago
4 comments:
So is there a video of this ascent.......?
Good effort.
Nothing like a trip to Font to hone the cake-eating skills.
(Well done on Keelhaul too)
Did you see this:
http://vimeo.com/4324776?pg=embed&sec=
Looks familiar. If that was in a dingy quarry with an upturned tree stump for a landing it would be an instant classic.
You've just inspired me to start climbing again... well done.
Proof that the cliff is for all seasons.
Cheers Tom.
A couple of weeks of French pastries has just warmed me up nicely for the cream tea season.
I saw that video, looks like a good problem but as you point out the surroundings lack a certain grubbiness....
Uptown giving up climbing? Or just a temporary break whilst adjusting to home life changes?
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