On the importance of angles

On Thursday I headed back the Kilnsey with the Guru. This time it was somewhat drier so game on, it was however very hot so Metal Mickey was not really on the cards. Time for something different. Warm up first. I managed my first route at Kilnsey and my first sport flash, yay, however this was just the a 6b (can't remember the name) so perhaps not greatly impressive...
Then, as is traditional, I tried and failed on a 7a+. At least this time I managed to get a decent way up it before resorting to bolt-to-bolt.
Anyway then it was Comedy for me and Pantomime for the Guru. Guru was up first and on-sighted Pantomime in good style, it looked tricky from the ground but I am assured that once you start climbing the moves just fall into place, hmmmm we'll see.
Anyway then on to Comedy. I have previously had an attempt on this route. It turned into a bit of a farce though involving belaying difficulties and dog rescue which meant I had to be lowered of from half-height to rescue Bammers. Anyway this time I went up to half-height jug, had a rest, bolt-to-bolted the top then lowered off. I had another rest whilst Guru onsighted something else (that looked desperate) then I had a redpoint and fell off the move to the cigar hold. I wasn't pumped but the left hand sidepull that you go off to get the cigar hold was damp and felt very glassy and my hand just slid out of it. Anyway I then trundled up to the top and stripped it. Time was short so I couldn't get another RP in. Guru tried for a fourth onsight of the day but it wasn't to be (very close though). I definitely have a lot to learn still...
Friday evening I went to the Depot with everybody else, mosh pit. It was a good evening and I now realise I need to steepen up my board big time. The Beastmaker board at the Depot is bonza, and whilst it is perhaps too steep for my current abilities it is certainly indicative of the direction I should move the board in. My board is currently at the 25-30 degree sort of angle, which was ideal for me when I first built it, but now I think I need proper steepness to (try) and develop the sort of dirty filthy burl that was in evidence on Friday evening. Time to break out the power tools and hit 45 I think...

And just for you Jon.