Monday, 5 October 2009

Grit, what grit?

I'm still in sport mode, which surprises me. I've really enjoyed sport climbing over the summer, which I wasn't expecting. Especially given the fact that I have had less success than I was hoping for. I'm still strangely motivated to clip the bolts and work the moves.

Anyway over the last few days I have done the following:
Went to Longridge where I helicoptered off the last move of Big Marine and landed on my head. Maybe I should have just kept hold of the finishing jug? Bruised my wrists a bit but no lasting damage, it would seem my head is a pretty good thing to land on, certainly a better shock absorber than my knees. Also tried a new line which I think will probably end up as a dirty hard one mover (7c+/8a).

Went to Trollers Gill again. Failed again on the Guru's new route, it has one move that is very hard for me. But did tweak the sequence slightly which whilst it doesn't make the move any easier I think it increases it's percentage (if that makes any sense, probably not). Also did Spent Youth, I tried for the flash but got my feet all a bit confused. Then bolt-to-bolt to the top and a quick check of a couple of moves as I was lowered down then redpointed it first attempt. A nice route which I was pleased to get ticked pretty quickly.

Went to Kilnsey with the Guru, we were planning on scoping Yew Cogar but weather issues meant we opted for Kilnsey instead. We both worked our way up Massala Martyr from one move in and I've got a workable sequence up to the fourth bolt, Guru has a sequence to the top. The route is essentially three boulder problems then an easy finish however a hold has broken on the third boulder problem (above the fourth bolt) so current thinking seems to be 8a+ to the fourth bolt and 8b to the belay. After working the route we tried bouldering out the first move. This is the hardest move on the route and I was very clode to hanging it (it's a dyno). I think maybe next time it will go, and I'm sure if I do the move I can get to the fourth bolt. Which would be 8a+. Now OK it would be a bit wanky, only doing half the route and then claiming a tick, but it is still a quality bit of climbing to the fouth bolt and it is a obvious stopping point at a good hold in a break. So I'm not just picking some arbritary point to let go and claim a grade (well OK I sort of am but what the hey, it's only climbing). Anyway very keen to get back on this. Then went to a top secret Yorkshire Limestone bouldering venue, I'd tell you more but it's kind of an exclusive venue. You know only hard problems, access is not clear etc etc so to preserve access for me and my mates it seems best to keep schtum. I'm sure you'll all understand...

Smile, you never know who's watching.

1 comment:

Stallion said...

Get to Cogar mate, long un's in the main though.