The Weekend Of Crush...Errrrrr.....

The weekend was spent in Sheffield. The weather looked to be OK so surely some opportunity for getting something worthwhile done outside? Well sort of...
On Saturday I was working until mid-afternoon then had time to nip out for a quick session. Time constraints meant that getting out to the lime wasn't possible so instead decided to go to the Plantation and give Jerry's Traverse a bash. Jerry's is obviously a uber-classic problem at an uber-classic venue. It is also a problem that I have never really tried (beyond giving the last move a go several years ago...). I was there with Rick who is (like most people) decidedly taller than I. We both managed to work all the moves, I was expecting to have an easier time of it than Rick as part of the problem is very cramped. However this short cramped section is more than offset by the fact that pretty much all the other moves on the problem felt VERY stretched for me. Anyway it was very hot (well into the twenties I imagine) and humid and still so the problem was not crushed. I'm fairly confident that in favourable conditions I could link this, or maybe I'm just making excuses....
Sunday was a family trip out (Ricks family, not mine) so we went to Cratcliffe/RHS. The kids did a bit of climbing as did Mrs Rick. I was relly impressed with Mrs Ricks climbing, she seems to have really got her head straight for bouldering right now. Nice one.
Anyway after a brief warm up (throwing a stick for the dog) Rick and I got onto T-Crack. This is another uber-classic problem that I've never tried however Rick has tried it before. Sadly he has the worst memory for sequences ever, lots of vague references to double toe hooks, campusing and heel hooks. In the end I just ignore him and work out a very simple sequence to get to the last move, which then promptly shuts me down completely. To be honest conditions weren't great (good excuse hey?) all the holds felt damp to the touch and again I'm sure I could do it in good conditions (the to-do list is growing). After this failure I decided to go round the corner and try Jerry's Traverse. If I couldn't do the uber-classic Stanage version maybe I could do the not quite so classic (and easier) Crattcliffe version? First attempt I got to the crux move, a match on a sloping break in the middle of the traverse, and promptly dropped off. Did the move in isolation, no problem, then had another couple of goes from the start and fell off at the same point - arse. The realised the problem (beyond me being weak and inflexible). I had taped my left ring finger as it has developed a slight injury and when I got the slopy hold the tape was rolling off my finger making the hold feel very insecure so making the match too difficult for me. Obviously a beast would just bone down and cruise through, but for me I have to maximise my potential for success by making these small tweaks. So tape removed and next go, in the bag. Felt pretty straightforward in the end, unsurprising really given it isn't exactly a technique-fest.
Oh well not the glorious tickathon I was hoping for but pleased with the Jerrys tick (and the fact that it happened pretty quickly) and on a crispy dry day I think both the other problems will go. I guess the acid test will be whether I go back when I do get the good conditions.
Back to work now and feeling pretty blasted actually, on the board tomorrow then outside later in the week and at the weekend. Right now I just want to get lots of mileage and consolidate 7c. Also keen to get back up to Trowbarrow when good conditions coincide with me feeling good and do Iron Man (8a) to convince myself that the ultimate plan isn't ridiculously beyond realisation. I also need to work on flexibility big time and maybe look into getting a structured training schedule together to get the basic burl required. Although to be honest that's not really my bag so I'll probably just stick to my unfocussed messing and hope it all comes together....